2024 Empties Part 2: Toners and Essences

Is this an egregious amount of toner and essence to go through in a year? Possibly. Am I in my late 30s living in a dry climate? Also yes. The seven skin method has been a great boon to my skin, and in every routine I use two layers of a fermented essence, followed by two layers of a hydrating toner, followed by two layers of some sort of antioxidant toner, with a cream essence or a mist interspersed throughout my routine as needed.

Etude Soon Jung Cica Relief Toner

The Etude Soon Jung Cica Relief Toner is an old favorite — so much so that I actually wrote a Face Off featuring it back when I was posting more actively. The packaging has changed a bit since then (and even since I purchased and used this, from what I’ve seen online), but the goodness remains. This toner features various forms of cica, as well as panthenol, ceramide NP and other goodies, to be deeply hydrating while also soothing. This is a great toner for those looking to do seven skins, regardless of skin type, as there’s something in here for everyone.
Rating: 10/10
Price: $32 USD / 350 mL

Benton Let’s Carrot Oil Mist Toner

I love a pun, I’ve been interested in carrot as an ingredient, and when the Benton Let’s Carrot Oil Toner was available as a reward through Soko Glam, I had to snatch it. This is a biphase mist, as there is indeed a layer of oil that has not been emulsified with the toner component of this product. The mister is fairly generic, with nothing specific to recommend it. Carrot oil has antioxidant properties and is a natural source of vitamin A, among other vitamins. It took me a while to go through this, though, because I frankly wasn’t too impressed.
Rating: 6/10
Price: $25 USD / 150 mL

Mixsoon Soondy Centella Asiatica Essence

I received the Mixsoon Soondy Centella Asiatica Essence in a YesStyle influencer package from the brand over the summer, along with a variety of other products from the brand (like below) and which you’ll see in other posts. The bottle looks small, but it’s actually 100 mL and a perfect form factor to travel with, which I did. As the fact that having three cica products in this post probably shows, I’m a fan of the ingredient — for its calming properties, as well as its hydrating ones. That said, this did not feel particularly deeply hydrating to me, possibly because it is 100% cica rather than a blend with humectants. I do find it interesting that this essence has a light brown tone, presumably due to how it’s extracted.
Rating: 7/10
Price: $32 USD / 100 mL

Mixsoon Bifida Ferment Essence

The Mixsoon Bifida Ferment Essence was part of that same influencer package. I’m more of a galactomyces ferment person, generally (they also sent me that product, which I have not yet had a chance to try), but I enjoy bifida ferment for its skin barrier supporting properties. This is quite watery and sinks in pretty quickly. I did feel like my skin became softer while using it, and it was nice having the skin barrier support while traveling, because this also has a great form factor.
Rating: 8/10
Price: $32 USD / 100 mL

Magic Molecule The Solution

The Magic Molecule The Solution became a staple in our household more than a year ago, and I’ve lost track of how many of these little bottles we’ve gone through — enough that they don’t even sell them outside of part of a bigger bundle on their website anymore, apparently. This is a no-nonsense hypochlorous acid spray, which we use on whatever irritated skin we may have. It’s also a hack that I sometimes combine with a toner pad in routines when I’m really not feeling that face-washing life. If you have rosacea, acne, or other skin irritation, hypochlorous acid can be a great thing to include.
Rating: 10/10
Price: N/A in this size; $32 USD / 236 mL

Dewytree Cica 100 Essence

I’m wracking my brain to think of what to say about the Dewytree Cica 100 Essence that, well, I didn’t already say about the Mixsoon essence — both are 100% cica essences. They presumably have different cica sources, though, as well as different extraction methods. I found this essence to be slightly more hydrating, and it also comes in at a better price point than the Mixsoon.
Rating: 8/10
Price: $31 USD / 160 mL

I’m From Rice Toner

The I’m From Rice Toner is a mainstay in k-beauty, and this isn’t my first empty of it — mini or otherwise. This one, if I recall correctly, was a gift with purchase. The I’m From Rice Toner has over 77% rice extract, as well as niacinamide, with the goal of brightening the skin. I do think it supports that goal, though wouldn’t be enough on its own, but it’s a nice addition to a seven skins routine — I used it as my antioxidant toner.
Rating: 8/10
Price: ~$28 USD / 150 mL for the full size (prices vary on k-beauty retailers)

Isntree Onion Newpair Essence Toner

I would have totally skipped over the Isntree Onion line if I hadn’t heard about its antioxidant benefits — which is why I’ve now tried the sunscreen in addition to the Isntree Onion Newpair Essence Toner. First off, it does not remotely smell like onion (thankfully — I’ve cried through skincare routines but wouldn’t want to make it a regular activity). It uses 75% of red onion extract, as well as niacinamide and tranexamic acid to help brighten the skin. This is another toner wherein it can give a brightening boost, but wouldn’t be enough on its own to truly correct any obvious skincare concerns.
Rating: 9/10
Price: ~22 USD / 200 mL (prices vary on k-beauty retailers)

Graymelin Galactomyces Multy Toner

I have been obsessed with galactomyces ever since I discovered that it could both reduce my pore size and my redness, and since there have generally been few galactomyces-specific products on the market, I gave the Graymelin Galactomyces Multy Toner a try just to see what else was out there besides first essences. This has 70% of galactomyces ferment but is notably thicker than a ferment essence — definitely a toner with some body. I would recommend holding out for a first essence, if you’re hoping to try the ingredient — especially since this seems like it may have been discontinued.
Rating: 6/10
Price: N/A

Mary & May Blackberry Complex Cream Essence

Like so many of us, I had to try the Mary & May Blackberry Complex Cream Essence — I had tried the Dr Ceuracle Kombucha essence in 2023, and I clearly have a Pokemon (gotta catch ’em all) approach to certain product categories. Like the rest of Mary & May’s blackberry line, this uses blackberry extract for antioxidant benefits; it also has blue lotus flower extract and jojoba seed oil, making this a biphase essence with a lot of “skintertainment” as it must be shaken before application. I prefer this to Dr. Ceuracle, as I think it is more moisturizing while feeling less heavy on the skin. Cream essences like this and Laneige (below) I don’t love using as part of seven skins, so I actually tend to apply this after my water-based serums.
Rating: 9/10
Price: $30 USD / 140 mL

Laneige Cream Skin Toner & Moisturizer

The Laneige Cream Skin Toner & Moisturizer was my starter cream essence, as it probably was for many of us. This is, again, not my first empty of this product — I’ve lived and loved it through multiple rebrands. My favorite part about Laneige Cream Skin is its use of meadowfoam seed oil, because my skin responds so well to it in any product I have with it. The newer packaging touts that it has cerapeptides, because it includes ceramide NP and tetrapeptide-11.
Rating: 9/10
Price: $16 USD / 50 mL; $36 USD / 170 mL for the full size

Glow Recipe Watermelon Glow PHA + BHA Pore Tight Toner

I’m fairly certain this mini Glow Recipe Watermelon Glow PHA + BHA Pore Tight Toner was a gift with purchase, but I’ve used it before, as well. As the name suggests, this uses watermelon extract (as well as cactus water, which it smells more similar to) to hydrate, and naturally-derived (aka plant extracts including) PHA and BHA for a light exfoliation. I’ve seen folks online worrying about using this in every routine and let me just say that I wouldn’t recommend using it in the morning, on principle, but this is so gentle that most skin types could use this nightly without any issue. This toner feels quite substantial, so one layer of it is fine, and I use it after my other toners. That said, if you’re really looking for serious exfoliation, this isn’t the product — this is more for folks whose skin is generally already fine.
Rating: 7/10
Price: $35 USD / 150 mL

PSA Heroine Mandelic & Licorice Superfood Glow Toner

I really wanted to love the PSA Heroine Mandelic & Licorice Superfood Glow Toner and I … just didn’t. Fun fact, this isn’t even actually an empty. I was so over it I couldn’t even use it up as a body product. The lid cracked, the product smells funky in a bad way (even before it almost certainly expired on me), and it made my skin tingle. In theory, 6% mandelic and lactic acid should make it a gentle enough exfoliant that on my skin I probably could have used it daily, but no dice. I think my experience is different from many, though, per the 4.6 star reviews on their website, so YMMV.
Rating: 1/10
Price: $36 USD / 100 mL

2024 Empties Part 1: Mostly Just The Basics

Wow, has it been a minute (nearly 525,600 of them). My last Empties post was the Empties & Openeds for January 2024. Well, here we are in January 2025, and I have nearly a year of empties to go through, which I’ll be breaking into three parts: toners, serums, and then this — cleansers, masks, toner pads, moisturizers, sunscreen, and random one-offs like sleeping masks, eye cream, lip masks and facial oil.

Cosrx Pure Fit Cica Cleanser

I got the Cosrx Pure Fit Cica Cleanser through a brand giveaway a few Januaries ago now. It takes me a while to go through cleanser (which is why there’s only one in these empties) because I only cleanse in the evening. This was my go-to shower cleanser, and to be honest I wound up largely using it on my body, too — it’s a cream cleanser, but a bit too drying for my dry skin. I’m also not entirely sold on how much cica in a wash-off like this can truly move the needle, but I acknowledge it might work for cost-conscious acne-prone folks.
Rating: 5/10
Price: $18 USD / 150 mL

Beekman 1802 Milk Foam Calming Bubble Mask

The Beekman 1802 Milk Foam Calming Bubble Mask is the sort of thing I recommend getting in a mini for fun or if you’re just trying to hit free shipping minimums, but is unlikely to make enough of an impact on your routine to merit splashing out for the full-size, unless it’s on sale. This is a classic bubbling type mask, where with time it foams on your face. This is great skintertainment, but the “it oxygenates your skin” claim that these types of masks tout are just hype.
Rating: 6/10
Price: $13 / 15 mL

Naturium Half Step Flash Facial

I’m a big fan of exfoliating wash-off masks, so while Naturium Half Step Flash Facial has a physical exfoliation component, I was curious to try it. The notion behind this mask is to use this halfway through your double cleanse as an exfoliating, cleansing boost. I found this to be quite gentle and suitable for fairly regular use. It appears that this product has been discontinued in favor of a more traditional, purely AHA wash-off mask.
Rating: 7/10
Price: N/A

Beauty of Joseon Red Bean Refreshing Pore Mask

I once had a comment go semi-viral on DermAngelo’s twitter because I commented that Beauty of Joseon Red Bean Refreshing Pore Mask smells like ice cream but should indeed not be ingested. Do I cling to that? Sure. Is this indeed a really nice mask that can give those of us with dry skin the clay mask experience we’ve been missing? Yes. This never dries down and thus dries out the skin, but it does have some of the aesthetic pore benefits of more standard clay masks.
Rating: 9/10
Price: $20 USD / 140 mL

Missha Super Aqua Hyalron Ultra Toner Pads

You know how I’ve been mentioning that my skin is dry? Well, between that and my inherent laziness, I don’t cleanse in the morning, and use toner pads instead. The Missha Super Aqua Hyalron Ultra Toner Pads are a very basic toner pad that uses a soft pad (important) along with various forms of hyaluronic acid, as well as panthenol and allantoin, to tone the skin. This does include fragrance and some essential oils.
Rating: 7/10
Price: ~ $20 USD / 90 pads (no longer on the US site, still available on CA site and on YesStyle)

Soo Good Feel Soo Calm Toner Pad

The Soo Good Feel Soo Calm Toner Pad is interesting for two reasons: it’s enormous, and it centers cabbage water. This is the previous packaging, but the renewal seems to just use more of the good stuff, specifically said cabbage water. Cabbage water is surprisingly soothing, and this includes other soothing ingredients like aloe and cucumber. These are big enough that it is completely feasible to cut them in half, turning 70 pads into, well, 140.
Rating: 9/10
Price: $24 USD / 70 pads

Mediheal N.M.F Intensive Hydrating Cream

This is technically my second container of Mediheal N.M.F Intensive Hydrating Cream — but that’s because I gave the first one, unopened, to an in-law when they were visiting and desperate for some soothing skincare (going from the Bay Area to Colorado is really fun for your skin). I have long adored Mediheal’s N.M.F. (natural moisturizing factors) sheet masks, so trying the cream seemed like a no-brainer. This has that cooling, protecting texture that I often think of being similar to cold creams, but which gives it a medium weight suitable for most environments. It does have some fragrance, but otherwise is a really great pick for sensitive types, especially given the price point.
Rating: 9/10
Price: $15 USD / 50 mL

Kopari Beauty Moisture Whipped Ceramide Cream

I’ll level with you, I was influenced (by Youtube and by a sale) to buy the Kopari Beauty Moisture Whipped Ceramide Cream. I do love ceramides, of course, and while this does have a fairly nice whipped texture, it didn’t really stick with me as an experience. I can see this being good for the person with a fairly minimal routine who wants to give their skin barrier an extra boost without adding a step — just try to grab it on sale.
Rating: 8/10
Price: $42 USD / 60 mL

Originz GinZing Oil-Free Energy-Boosting Gel Moisturizer

The Originz GinZing Oil-Free Energy-Boosting Gel Moisturizer was a gift with purchase, and I think has since been rebranded as the GinZing Energizing Gel Cream. I used it as a day cream under a moisturizing sunscreen, since, as I’ve already mentioned, I have dry skin. This has caffeine and niacinamide, so I can see it being good for oily skin prone to dark circles — though they have an eye cream in the same line that would be a more targeted treatment.
Rating: 4/10
Price: N/A

Dr. Different Cica Metal Cream

The Dr. Different Cica Metal Cream was a gift with purchase when buying their retinal (review in a future post!) and it took me a while to get to it — it’s a mini, what on earth does it mean by “metal”, you know the drill. I opened it up when traveling internationally earlier this year, though. It’s designed for sensitive, acne-prone skin, because the cica calms and the metal (in this case, zinc and copper) helps control the acne. I didn’t find it drying like other zinc-based products. Alas, however, may have been discontinued, as I cannot currently find a truly reputable site with it.
Rating: 6/10
Price: N/A

Glow Recipe Watermelon Glow Pink Juice Oil-Free Moisturizer

I’ll admit it, I’m a sucker for Glow Recipe’s packaging as much as the next person. I don’t recall now if this mini was a gift with purchase or if I got bamboozled into buying it to hit a free shipping minimum (my ongoing weakness, I’m working on it). This is another oil-free moisturizer, so I used it in the mornings, and occasionally as a PM layer before retinal. This feels fairly hydrating, so I can see why oily skin types would enjoy it.
Rating: 6/10
Price: $21 USD / 25 mL

Beauty of Joseon Red Bean Water Gel

Another product from the Beauty of Joseon Red Bean line, and another oil-free moisturizer! Who am I? Someone who gets oil-free moisturizers for free, apparently — this one was a YesStyle influencer product. I went for it because a Youtuber mentioned it could work as a day cream under a moisturizing sunscreen (how I used it), though I also wound up using it, essentially, as a final water-based serum in my evening routine. The red bean extract is supposed to help with pores and sebum, while this also includes peptides for hydration.
Rating: 6/10
Price: $18 USD / 100 mL

Beekman 1802 Midnight Milk Better Aging Sleep Mask

The Beekman 1802 Midnight Milk Better Aging Sleep Mask is the sort of thing I love: a fun color (purple), a great texture (soothing, smooth and cooling), and chockfull of deliciousness like melatonin, peptides, bakuchiol and, of course, goat milk. My only beef (are we going for a livestock theme suddenly?) with it is the price, so I plan to keep an eye out for decent sales in order to repurchase it — I’m pretty sure I got it initially on a sale, too, because the full price of it makes my eyes water enough that I have to knock it down a rating. I enjoy sleeping masks as the final step of a long, often active-filled PM routine.
Rating: 9/10
Price: $52 USD / 63 mL

Cocokind Resurrection Polypeptide Cream

I really wanted to love the Cocokind Resurrection Polypeptide Cream — after all, it’s both purple and has peptides, like the Beekman 1802 sleeping mask. It is, however, astonishingly drying, in that it literally dries down and feels tight, similarly to a clay mask. I found that I needed to add hydration before and, often, mix in a facial oil, in order to make it usable. I hope that maybe I just got an older tub and it had lost some of its “rich cream” with “dreamy, cushion-like texture” characteristics by the time I was using it, because otherwise, whoof no. Points for prettiness, I suppose.
Rating: 2/10
Price: $27 USD / 50 mL

Kiehl’s Ultra Facial Cream with Squalane

The Kiehl’s Ultra Facial Cream with Squalane makes me realize why Kiehl’s had such a strong brand coming into the internetification of skincare. I’ve now gotten two minis as gifts with purchase, and I’ve enjoyed both immensely. It has a fairly similar texture, actually, to the Mediheal N.M.F. moisturizer, but is a bit thicker. It’s a simple, no nonsense moisturizer that I am very happy to use for free, and which I may someday actually pay for.
Rating: 9/10
Price: $42 USD / 50 mL

Klairs Fundamental Nourishing Eye Butter

I’m not a big eye cream person, which is why the only one on this list is Klairs Fundamental Nourishing Eye Butter, I have no eye creams currently in rotation, and I only even have one in my stash at the moment. I actually don’t use them as eye creams, when I do have them in rotation: instead, I love putting eye cream on underneath a lip mask. This essentially helps me balance the occlusion of many lip masks with the hydration and moisture of an eye cream. That was exactly what I did with this. As an eye cream, it theoretically has benefits for dark circles and wrinkles due to various tea extracts and peptides. For my lips, well, it does indeed help.
Rating: 8/10
Pricing: $24 USD / 20 g

Laniege Lip Sleeping Mask

I think I’ve paid for a Laniege Lip Sleeping Mask possibly once, but somehow often get them for free. These small sizes last forever, even using not just before sleep (does anyone actually just use lip sleeping masks before bed? Tell me). This lip mask does indeed soften the lips, though it does not have much occlusion to it.
Rating: 8/10
Pricing: $24 USD / 20 g

Stratia Fortify Facial Oil

We’re Stratia fans in this house (specifically Lipid Gold, of course), but I wanted to branch out so I tried the Fortify Facial Oil. I enjoy using facial oils in addition to or in lieu of sleeping masks, or as a way to make night creams more beefy. This is a blend of camellia seed oil (good for moisturization), tamanu oil (good for inflammation) and squalane (quick absorbing) which would probably be tolerated well by all skin types.
Rating: 9/10
Price: $24 USD / 30 mL

Isntree Hyaluronic Acid Watery Sun Gel

The Isntree Hyaluronic Acid Watery Sun Gel is such a staple in our home that we actually went through at least two bottles this year (I don’t know exactly how many, as I tossed all but the one I needed for the photo). As I have previously documented, my husband used to not like skincare, but he actually uses and loves this sunscreen. Indeed, I usually always keep a tube in rotation while I test out other brands we might be interested in using. This uses modern sunscreen filters and has a lightweight feel with a slightly dewy but mostly unclockable finish.
SPF: 50+ PA++++
Rating: 10/10
Price: ~$20 USD / 50 mL (prices vary on k-beauty retailers)

Biore UV Aqua Rich Aqua Protect Lotion

We picked up the Biore UV Aqua Rich Aqua Protect Lotion at a 7/11 on our way to a beach day in Japan. I know, I’m a little jealous of myself just writing that. It took us a while to go through this container (that trip was September of 2023, though in fairness we usually have about three tubes of sunscreen going at once). This has an incredibly liquidy texture, and needs to be shaken regularly to not separate. I think these two factors, unfortunately, make it tricky to use, so I downgraded it to body care because I didn’t feel like I was reliably applying properly.
SPF: 50+ PA++++
Rating: 8/10
Price: ~$14 USD / 70 mL (prices vary on j-beauty retailers)

Round Lab Birch Juice Moisturizing Sunscreen

The Round Lab Birch Juice Moisturizing Sunscreen got very hyped in 2024, and for good reason. This k-beauty sunscreen uses modern sunscreen filters (Important: They have a version with older filters for sale on their website with a lower SPF rating. This is not a review of that.) It has a nice lightweight and lightly dewy finish, and is not dissimilar to the Isntree sunscreen. This sunscreen is part of Round Lab’s birch tree line, which focuses on the ingredient due to its hydrating, antioxidant and anti-inflammatory benefits.
SPF: 50+ PA++++
Rating: 10/10
Price: ~20 USD / 50 mL (prices vary on k-beauty retailers)

COSRX Vitamin E Vitalizing Sunscreen

COSRX is a well-known k-beauty brand but they’ve been playing in the US sunscreen filter space for a while, with the Vitamin E Vitalizing Sunscreen being a newer product to their line up. This uses chemical filters approved for sale in the US, and thus not the more modern filters which has made so many k-beauty and j-beauty sunscreens (like the ones above) so popular. Unfortunately, this has all the usual US chemical sunscreen problems: it’s thick, it stings the eyes, and God forbid you get it in your mouth. We downgraded it to bodycare after only a few uses.
SPF: 50+ broad spectrum
Rating: 2/10
Price: $23 USD/50 mL

Everyday Humans Oh My Bod! Sunscreen

It’s hard to find and interesting body sunscreen, so I was intrigued by the Everyday Humans Oh My Bod! Sunscreen. This sunscreen uses US-approved chemical filters, and has some of the thickness of texture that I do associate with chemical sunscreens. However, once on the skin it doesn’t feel heavy — my husband even used it on his face before runs on occasion, and he’s much more sensitive to sunscreens than I am. Some of this lightness might be attributed to the cucumber, green tea and hyaluronic acid that the packaging touts. If you’re looking for a cost-effective body sunscreen in the US that doesn’t suck, this is a great option.
SPF: 50 broad spectrum
Rating: 9/10
Price: $17.50 USD / 100 mL

GeneOn Good Genes ReActivator Review

The lovely folks at GeneOn sent me their Good Genes Reactivator at the beginning of the year, and I’ve finally had enough experience with it to review it in detail.

Product Details

As some may know, I’ve moved up from retinol to retinal within the last year or so. Retinal is one step closer to being retinoic acid, the bioavailable thing your skin actually uses, and thus is generally stronger. I’ve thus far been going for relatively low percentages of it so I can maintain my daily or near daily use.

This isn’t just retinal, but also has peptides and resveratrol. Resveratrol is a popular antioxidant, and for good reason. Like antioxidants generally, it helps reduce UV and environmental damage. Resveratrol in particular has been shown to stimulate collagen production, which given its ability to penetrate the skin barrier is extra helpful. On the peptide side, this has 1.5% Matrixyl 3000 and 1% Matrixyl Synthe 6, two blends shown to signal collagen creation, as well as copper tripeptide-1, which has been shown to do the same. Out of left field, it also has 1% Kluyveromyces Biopeptides, which can literally slow down cell apoptosis — aka it can make your cells live longer.

In the name of science, and because I was having eczema on one side of my face when I started, I just used the product on the left side of my face for the first two months. In the last month, I’ve started using it on both sides, because I actually have noticed enough results that I didn’t want to be “lopsided”. What are those results, you ask?

My Results

Unfortunately, it has had no effect (thus far) on the melasma on my upper lip that can give me the dreaded perma-mustache. It has, however, reduced some of the sun damage on my cheeks — not getting rid of freckles, but reducing the splotchiness. I also saw a reduction in redness around my nose, where my seborrheic dermatitis sometimes likes to linger, and it hasn’t itched. This isn’t too surprising, as I have had this experience with other retinol/retinal products, and retinal is known to strengthen the skin.

Retinal and the peptides in this product are known to firm and plump skin — and perhaps the most notable thing about my side-by-side project is that it did indeed. My left cheek started feeling bouncier than my right. This was even backed up by the “husband test”, wherein one evening I forced him to poke both sides of my face, and unbidden he confirmed my own impressions. This, frankly, was what made me decide to start applying to both sides of my face, rather than just continue with the one — ain’t nobody here for being lopsided. I am happy to say that since using it on both sides of my face, my right cheek has caught up to my left.

How I Used

The product recommends using by applying directly to a clean dry face, and following up later with moisturizer after the product has had a chance to dry down. I did not do this. I almost never follow the directions on how to use a product, frankly, mostly because my routine’s too involved. Specifically with retinoids, however, I prefer the “sandwich” method, by which I do my routine and moisturize, then apply retinal, then apply a sleeping mask. I used two pumps per application, not missing neck, decolletage or eye area — I’ve found that with the sandwich method, I can safely use retinal in both areas without misadventures.

I use this nearly every day, which is a function more of a spotty routine adherence, lately, rather than anything intentional. That said, if you are new to retinal or generally sensitive, I strongly recommend not doing that. With this, I started once a week, and gradually increased frequency.

You don’t need to wash your face the morning after using this product (unless that’s a thing you were doing already), but I do recommend sunscreen on general principle — no reason to pony up the cash for this product if you’re not going to protect your results.

Skincare Hauls on a Low/No Buy

As some of you may know, I’ve been on a skincare no/low buy this year. Prior to this challenge I’ve generally not been posting my hauls, as I think they can be triggering for some and be seen as promoting buying skincare over using skincare, but I thought it might be worth it to share my approach.

I track my current routine, and my skincare stash, in a spreadsheet, so I know what I’m using and what I have next to use. Because, up to this year, I allowed myself a budget of $100/month and generally have a bent towards kbeauty, which can be quite affordable, this means I’ve built up a fair bit of a stash through the months (and years).

Since we just bought a new house, i wanted to focus on putting my money towards paying down that mortgage extra fast (it really counts at the start!) rather than buying some more skincare that would sit in my stash until I’m ready to use it. So my low buy/no buy rules was simply this:

I must be on the last product within a category before I buy another in that category. No backups can remain for me to buy another item in that category.

Now, granted, I have A LOT of categories — propolis serum is one, for example, and ceramide serum is another. I, without a doubt, have a long routine. But it works for me and my skin.

Recently I was feeling like a “stressed depressed lemon zest”, in a term I learned from one of my reports this morning. Thankfully, this coincided with spring sale season and with my need for some replacements. So here’s what I got in my haul from Missha and Soko Glam, and why:

Chogongjin Geumsul Jin Emulsion (from Missha): a replacement for my emulsion. In this case, I consider an emulsion to be any sort of milky essence. Right now, for example, I’m using the Mary & May Vegan Blackberry Complex Cream Essence. This is arguably where I’m fudging the most, as I actually have a mini of the old Laneige Cream Skin in my stash — but I’m saving that one for travel, and it’s a mini.

Super Aqua Ultra Hyalron Toner Pads (from Missha): a replacement for my toner pads. I’m currently using the Soo Good Feel Soo Calm toner pads. These are definitely a luxury, but I love them for a morning wipe down, since I don’t wash my face in the morning.

Axis-Y Dark Spot Correcting Glow Serum (via Soko Glam): a replacement for my antioxidant serum. I like having a dedicated one for that antioxidant support (yay living a mile high) and brightening oomph. I’m currently using the Banobagi Milk Thistle Repair Serum.

Mediheal N.M.F. Intensive Hydrating Cream (via Soko Glam): a replacement for my PM moisturizer. I have actually had this in my stash before and it SHOULD have been what I am using currently, but I gave it to my SIL when she was in Colorado and her skin was struggling, so instead I’m currently using the Cocokind Resurrection Polypeptide Cream.

I’m From Honey Mask (via Soko Glam): a replacement for my moisturizing mask. I have a few mask categories and don’t actually have anything in this mask category currently. My other two categories of mask are “shower mask”, for masks that I like to wear before hopping in the shower to protect my skin, and exfoliating masks. I like having a moisturizing mask after the exfoliating masks, but because of the exfoliating mask I’m using currently (Naturium’s Half Step Flash Facial, which is intended to be used between a first and second cleanse), it hasn’t been relevant. For those wondering, my current shower mask is Beauty of Joseon’s Red Bean Refreshing Pore Mask, and its back up is the Peach Slices Snail Rescue Mask.

Some By Mi Beta Panthenol Repair Serum (via Soko Glam): a replacement for my ceramide serum. I’m currently using the RNW Der Ceramide Serum, which I swear by, but this inci list looked like a lot of fun and I’ve been eyeing it for a while. Plus I love the brand’s propolis serum.

The rest, admittedly, are splurges, GWP, or not skincare. Sheet masks are where I let myself get wild (especially if needed to qualify for free shipping, AND on sale, which these were). The mini I’m From Rice Toner was a GWP from Soko Glam due to $75 in spend. And the Missha BB Cream? Well, quite frankly part of why I’m so into skincare is because I don’t know how to do makeup, but I thought maybe I could give it another shot.

January Empties and Openeds

I almost wrote that life calmed down a bit in January, which is entirely not true — it featured a perilous trek across two mountain ranges in order to spend two weeks in California — but I did get back on the skincare bandwagon in a big way. My eye eczema DID finally calm down (thanks to the humid Bay Area air and my husband’s Peach Slices azelaic acid, in the end).

Emptied

🐝 COSRX Full Fit Propolis Light Ampoule

The COSRX Full Fit Propolis Light Ampoule is a classic for good reason, and this is my second empty of it. This ampoule’s 83.5% propolis gives it a syrupy, gel-like texture which has a lot of slip to it. I love propolis because it gives a glow, while also being moisturizing. Unlike other propolis serums, this does not include royal jelly or honey, but it’s still an excellent option, and one of the more accessible options for those in the US market. This is not vegan but it is vegetarian, and those with bee allergies should patch test.
Opened: September
Price: $28 USD / 30 mL
Rating: 10/10

😴 Sulwhasoo Overnight Vitalizing Sleep Mask

Sulwhasoo is expensive, but the Sulwhasoo Overnight Vitalizing Sleep Mask mini is a 17 cent per mL steal. As a sleeping mask, this moisturizes with squalane, shea butter, dimethicone, honey and various fatty alcohols. The hero ingredients, per Sulwhasoo, are pomegranate and jujube extracts, which are antioxidants. I didn’t notice any particular difference while using this, though the experience of it was nice — I certainly felt fancy, especially with the faint fragrance. I had been plowing through this and set to empty it in Q4 but when my eye eczema flared I paused use on it, since fragrance seemed to be associated with flare-ups.
Opened: September
Price: $6 USD / 35 mL
Rating: 8/10

🌆 UrbanRx Retinol Rapid Repair & Dark Spot Treatment

I had gotten the UrbanRx Retinol Rapid Repair & Dark Spot Treatment in a mini (though the main size is so small that that would also arguably qualify as a mini) through Ulta, and basically forgotten it until pigmentation from the summer started driving me wild. This has .75% retinol, which makes it feel reasonably strong, as well as niacinamide and kojic acid. I saw pretty rapid, early results with this on the brightening front, though that did end up plateauing. I would say that if you’re going after retinol for skin tone or acne benefits, this might be a good option, but there are better options for anti-aging.
Opened: Not sure! At some point in late 2023, but I forgot to document it
Price: $26 USD / 14 mL
Rating: 8/10

🍶 Missha Time Revolution The First Treatment Essence 5x

In the grand game of SK-II dupes, Missha’s First Treatment Essence reigns supreme — indeed, I actually like it better than SK-II. The Time Revolution 5X is their latest iteration, with 97% desert cica yeast ferment (so the usual galactomyces, but zhuzhed), plus niacinamide and ceramide NP for extra skin barrier benefits. I love this stuff, and pretty much bomb through it. I find it to be deeply hydrating, and gives me “hmm, why is my skin doing so well lately” vibes when I use it regularly. I particularly recommend it as an offbeat solution for pore care, if you’ve tried everything else. It’s expensive, but Missha runs fairly regular sales, so I’ll be repurchasing for 50% off at some point.
Opened: August
Price: $54 USD / 150 mL
Rating: 10/10

☀️ Krave The Beet Shield (original)

In November of 2020, I purchased 10 bottles of Krave Beauty The Beet Shield. This is the last one. I hadn’t been putting it in my empties because it was discontinued and it seemed moot, but the last bottle felt relevant. I still love the finish it gives on the skin.
Opened: Unknown
Price: N/A
Rating: 9/10

🇬🇷 Korres Greek Yoghurt Probiotic SuperDose Face Mask

I picked up the Korres Greek Yoghurt Probiotic SuperDose Face Mask for 38 euros almost a year and a half ago, when in Crete. It hit instant holy grail status for me. If you’re inclined towards reactive or sensitive skin and want instant relief (and don’t have issues with dairy), this can provide instant relief upon application, with a reduction in redness upon rinsing. When my skin wasn’t irritated, I would use it immediately after using an exfoliating wash-off mask, to mitigate some of the potential irritation there. It’s unfortunate that it’s so much more expensive in the United States, but I’m going to keep an eye out for good sales to try and snatch it again.
Opened: November ’22
Price: $52 USD / 100 mL
Rating: 10/10

Opened

🍶 Graymelin Galactomyces Multy Toner

Graymelin kept showing up in searches for me on YesStyle, and so I sprang for the Galactomyces Multy Toner rather than rebuying a first essence. It has, of course, since been seemingly discontinued, so hopefully it doesn’t turn out to be too much of a hit. I love galactomyces for its brightening and pore refining benefits, and I usually look for that in a first essence. This, instead, is a toner, which is basically the same thing but does have implications for its texture, which is not as lightweight as a first essence.
Price: $19 USD / 200 mL

🧬 GeneOn Good Genes ReActivator

I received the GeneOn Good Genes ReActivator as part of a pre-release, before the brand launches. Given the eye eczema that I was still battling at the start of the month, I decided to do proper science with this and try it on just the left side of my face (the one without the eczema, of course). I’m impressed to say that not only does the skin on the left side of my face already feel more robust, my husband also noticed that it seemed plumper to the touch. This has .1% retinal (like retinol, but stronger) and a strong focus on peptides, with 1% copper tripeptide-1 as well as 1.5% Matrixyl 3000 and 1% Matrixyl Synthe 6, two blends shown to signal collagen creation, and 1% Kluyveromyces Biopeptides, which I had never heard of before but can apparently literally slow down cell apoptosis, meaning your cells literally age more slowly. All in all? I’m intrigued, and using it almost every night. One of these days I’ll have to halt my experiment and use it on both sides lest I become forever lopsided.
Price: unknown

🦞 Marin Soothing Hydration Cream

Facebook had been relentlessly advertising the Marin Soothing Hydration Cream to me, and in a fit of “I must get rid of this eye eczema”, I relented. The brand literally started as a way to try to cure eczema. The brand’s gimmick? Each product includes hemocyanin, or a marine glycoprotein derived from lobsters. Those glycoproteins are what help lobsters regrow body parts, and the benefits seem to extend to helping rebuild the skin barrier. (This is not a vegetarian product; don’t use if you have a shellfish allergy). This also includes shea butter, squalane and coconut oil, making it a moisturizer that can work for face or body but most would probably prefer as a body moisturizer, due to its smell (classic unscented skincare bamboozle) and feel on the skin.
Price: $34 USD / 118 mL

👄 Marin Lip Treatment Unscented

Because I’m a sucker who always spends more for free shipping and because in winter in Colorado there’s no such thing as too many lip balms, I also grabbed the Marin Lip Treatment Unscented (there’s also a blueberry french toast option). This has a gloss texture, and I suspect that for those with longer hair, that texture could be quite problematic. But it does stick around, which is helpful. I gave my second tube (see: a problem with spending money to save money) to my sister-in-law, whose lips have been going through it after a temporary move to our dry state, and it’s been helping tremendously. Importantly, it doesn’t taste or smell fishy — but you definitely shouldn’t use it if you have a shellfish allergy (like the cream, this is not a vegetarian product).
Price: $20 USD / 15 mL

Q4 2023 Openeds

As referenced in a previous post, October, November and December of 2023 were pretty wild. On top of everything happening at work and at home, I also managed to get a pretty awful case of eczema around my right eye that shrank and flared throughout the last two months of the quarter, leading me to bust out a variety of skincare in the desperate hope it’d help.

Toners

🥕 Benton Let’s Carrot Oil Mist Toner

The Benton Let’s Carrot Oil Mist Toner was a rewards gift through Soko Glam a while back, and because I’m constantly curious about carrot’s skincare benefits, I had to snatch it. Who doesn’t love beta-carotene, am I right? This is a biphase product and you get carrot in both the oil and water layers, with carrot root water, carrot seed oil and carrot root extract. This also has grape seed adn avocado oil, but doesn’t feel oily when spritzed on the skin.
Price: $25 USD / 150 mL

🥬 Soo Good Feel Soo Calm Toner Pad

I was influenced into buying Soo Good Feel Soo Calm Toner Pad — I was curious that Soo had found that cabbage leaf water so helpful for her skin that she used it as the basis for a product. Cabbage leaf water is one of those ingredients that you’ll see on a surprising number of ingredient lists but is rarely given center stage, despite having tons of antioxidants, and being a good soothing ingredient. I like using these toner pads for a lazy cleanse. They’re quite large, and could be cut in half, but given that I’m really leaning into being lazy, I haven’t been. These toner pads have a different texture on the front and back, and supposedly their texture was also heavily workshopped by Soo.
Price: $26 USD / 70 pads (170 mL)

🦸‍♀️ PSA Heroine Mandelic & Licorice Superfood Glow Toner

The PSA Heroine Mandelic & Licorice Superfood Glow Toner has been on my radar for a while, and I picked up during one of the brand’s many BOGO sales. This has mandelic acid and lactic acid for exfoliating. For brightening, it has niacinamide, licorice root extract and various other extracts. In addition, it has various ferments, centella extract, allantoin and panthenol. In theory, it SHOULD be incredibly gentle. In practice, I find that it stings a bit, at least if applied to my hands and then patted in. I’ve taken to applying it to one of the Soo Good toner pads, then applying to my face, which works well.
Price: $36 USD / 150 mL

🍓 Mary & May Vegan Blackberry Complex Cream Essence

The Mary & May Vegan Blackberry Complex Cream Essence is often deemed a dupe of the Dr. Ceuracle Vegan Kombucha Tea Essence. On some levels, it certainly is — it’s a biphase essence, with a water layer and a cream layer which needs to be manually mixed before application. This makes it pretty peak “skintertainment”. They have a pretty similar feel on the skin, as well, though I personally find the Mary & May to feel less oily, and better for multiple layers. The hero ingredients of this are its 5% blackberry fruit extract, 10% blue lotus water and 8% jojoba seed oil, making it an antioxidant product that’s soothing as well as moisturizing. In addition, this has centella extract and ceramide NP, making it that much better of a skin strengthener.
Price: $30 USD / 140 mL

Serums

🪸 Krave Great Barrier Relief

I’ve been interested in the Krave Great Barrier Relief pretty much since I got into skincare, and here we are four years later. As the weather got colder and my eye irritation increased, it seemed to be exactly what the metaphorical doctor would order. This is a creamy serum that some oily skin types with money to burn could probably use as a moisturizer. It has 10% tamanu oil, which gives it its characteristic funky smell, as well as niacinamide, cermaide NP, rosehip oil and urea. It wasn’t as soothing as I had hoped for my use case, but I imagine that it has its cult following for a reason, for the acne-prone among us.
Price: $28 USD / 40 mL

🍑 Blithe Pressed Serum Gold Apricot

The Blithe Pressed Serum Gold Apricot wasn’t on my radar, until it popped up as a YesStyle influencer product (I still need to write that review … ugh, I’m the worst). What is a pressed serum, you might ask? It’s essentially just a gel moisturizer. Indeed, this feels heavy enough, on my skin, that I certainly wouldn’t recommend using it at any other step in your skincare besides immediately before moisturizer (it’s probably the dimethicone that makes it feel that way). This has apricot fruit extract, of course, as well as niacinamide and various fruit extracts, the intention being that it will brighten the skin. Unfortunately, it also has various fruit oils, so when my eczema flared I had to slow my roll, lest those irritate it further.
Price: $39 USD / 50 mL

Other

🍷 Krave Makeup Re-Wined (Pilot)

I am, admittedly, falling out of the habit of double cleansing — I’ve been stressed enough that it’s hard to do any cleansing generally, and given that I don’t wear makeup, it feels like it has limited utility. But I was curious about the Krave Makeup Re-Wined, so I picked up one of their pilot versions. This has upcycled grapeseed oil, which is a popular oil in first cleanses, as well as sunflower seed oil. As warned, this is quite a slippy and lightweight texture (unlike their non-pilot version), but I don’t have any issue with that. I like keeping it near the tub, where I can use it as a first cleanse in the bath, or as a body wash.
Price: $25 USD / 100 mL

🛢️ Stratia Fortify Facial Oil

I don’t always go for facial oils, but when my eye area flared with dry, irritated skin, I reached for Stratia Fortify Facial Oil. This is a blend of oleic and linoleic acids, which made me figure that whatever was ailing my eye area, it could probably help soothe it. And indeed, it did. This has camelia seed oil, squalane, perilla seed oil, borage seed oil, jojoba, marula, tamanu and cranberry seed oils, making it a who’s who of pretty much every oil I get excited about. I have tried this on its own as well as mixed with a moisturizer, and I find that it sinks in nicely without feeling heavy in either configuration.
Price: $24 USD / 30 mL

🌊 Kopari Moisture Whipped Ceramide Cream

Kopari hadn’t been on my radar because I don’t go cuckoo for coconut, but Alice in the Rabbithole sang this moisturizer’s praises, so I had to pick it up last January (literally, of 2023) when it went half off. This does, of course, have coconut fruit extract, because it wouldn’t make sense as an entry to their portfolio without it, but no coconut oil. Instead, it has squalane, shea butter, jojoba oil and watermelon seed oil, making it a great choice for dry skin. In addition, it has cholesterol, ceramide NP and ceramide precursors. It has a whipped texture, despite otherwise being a reasonably heavy cream. I find that a little goes a long way, and it feels quite nourishing.
Price: $42 USD / 40 mL

☀️ Isntree Hyaluronic Acid Watery Sun Gel

Isntree Hyaluronic Acid Watery Sun Gel is such a staple in our household that it almost doesn’t mention bringing up every time we open a new tube — except that I have to, in case someone hasn’t tried it yet. This is a chemical sunscreen with the newer generation chemical filters, meaning it has great UVA and UVB protection, and feels nice and lightweight. I still play around with new sunscreens, but my husband is basically sticking with this until it gets discontinued.
Price: $17 USD / 50 mL

Q4 2023 Empties

This is officially the longest I’ve gone without posting empties. Q4 was pretty wild with work, and we also bought a new house (photo taken on the mantle!). So, suffice it to say, my focus has been elsewhere. I probably did skincare maybe 25% of the time I should have, so there aren’t as many empties as you would anticipate for an entire three month period. What I opened will come out separately, and then I hope to get myself back onto a schedule where I post empties and openeds all in one post, once a month. We’ll see how I do.

Toners

😴 UNPA Lacto Cica Locking Serum

Do you hate washing your face? If so, I would like to controversially recommend toner pads, of which the UNPA Lacto Cica Locking Serum are a fabulous specimen. I like using them in the morning to get off the inevitable grime that comes with having dogs in your bed, and in the evenings on days when I am so unmotivated to do my skincare routine that I simply cannot bring myself to wash my face. Yes, it happens, even to skincare fanatics. This one has a lot more skincare benefits to it than a lot of the toner pads on the market. The lacto in the name is because these have a variety of postbiotics, in the form of bifida ferment filtrate and lysate, lactobacillus ferment lystate, lactococcus ferment lysate, and saccharomyces extract. The cica in this comes from centella leaf extract, as well as madecassoside and asiaticoside. The pads themselves are soft, and budget-conscious folks might consider cutting them in half.
Opened: June ’23
Price: $34 USD / 85 pads, or 145g
Rating: 9/10

💦 Indie Lee CoQ-10 Toner

Remember when the Indie Lee CoQ-10 Toner was all over Skincare Internet? I do. Who knows, knowing the TikTok trend cycles, maybe it is again. I wouldn’t know, I’ve drawn the line at TikTok, I’m too old. Anyways, due to its popularity, this mist pretty routinely shows up in Ulta’s 21 Days of Beauty sales, which is how I purchased it and how I would recommend doing so, as otherwise it’s a bit steep, in my opinion, for what you get. The directions say to spray on a cotton pad and then apply, and I would love to know if literally anyone ever has used this product that way. I liked it for a spritz between steps, as my face would dry down too much. This does have a fairly strong scent to it due to the sage extract. In terms of skincare benefits, Coenzyme Q10 is a great antioxidant, but this mist isn’t more hydrating than others I’ve tried.
Opened: May ’23
Price: $38 USD / 125 mL
Rating: 7/10

Lip Products

👄 Aquaphor Lip Repair

Is this the Aquaphor Lip Repair I opened in August of 2022? Possibly. I like to keep one around in case of emergencies, as pretty much nothing else brings chapped lips and skin back from the brink like this. There’s not too much to say here, beyond that I’m extremely proud to have emptied this and not lost it. It’s not sexy, but given how effective and cheap it is, I can’t not recommend it.
Opened: August ’22
Price: $5 USD / 10 mL
Rating: 10/10

💄 I Dew Care Plush Party Buttery Vitamin C Lip Mask

It generally takes me forever to get through pots of lip product, but the I Dew Care Plush Party Buttery Vitamin C Lip Mask put me to shame. In part, this was because I often forgot about this product, as it pretty much immediately disappears on my lips — perhaps because I’m in a dry climate, perhaps because I’m a mouth breather, perhaps because the product itself just doesn’t have staying power. The texture is quite similar to the Laneige sleeping mask that’s so popular, and it does indeed also include ascorbyl glucoside (a Vitamin C derivative). In terms of skincare benefits, though, it’s not delivering anything that pretty much any other lip product doesn’t.
Opened: August ’22
Price: $16 USD / 12 g
Rating: 8/10

Moisturizer Minis

💜 Tatcha Dewy Skin Cream

The Tatcha Dewy Skin Cream makes me feel like an actual princess every time I manage to get my hands on a sample. The aesthetics are top notch — beautiful purple color and a delightful fragrance — but the finish it leaves on the skin, both visually and texturally, is what really makes this to die for. It’s certainly appropriately named, in my opinion, and on the list of “someday when I’m not jumping around from product to product, be bougie and just get this”. This cream uses various forms of algae, known for their anti-aging properties, as well as ferments which I always adore. It winds up being a very nourishing medium weight cream that works well for my dry skin as a morning moisturizer in the winter, or a night cream basically any other time of year.
Opened: September
Price: $72 USD / 50 mL; shown in 10 mL mini
Rating: 10/10

⚡️ Shiseido Essential Energy Hydrating Cream

I had had the Shiseido Essential Energy Hydrating Cream hanging out in my stash for a while, but since I was about to go to Japan and needed a mini, I pulled this out in September. It’s a fragranced, mid-weight cream that is just a bit lighter weight than the Tatcha. Its hero ingredients are various weights of hyaluronic acid, as well as red ginseng extract. At least on my skin, however, it pretty much immediately disappears — in Colorado, anyway. When I was using it in distinctly more humid Japan, it actually made a great night cream. However, I didn’t love it enough to pick up a full-size when I walked by their flagship store in Ginza Tokyo.
Opened: September
Price: $30 USD / 30 mL; shown in 15 mL mini
Rating: 8/10

🍃 Barr Centella Calming Barrier Cream

I had used a full-size tube of the Barr Centella Calming Barrier Cream up in June, but had this mini banging around, and pulled it out to make up for Shiseido’s various deficits while still in Colorado. It’s a heavier weight cream than the Tatcha or Shiseido, though still not being as heavy as some other barrier cream products. It focuses on centella (64% water, with madecassoside and asiaticoside), with other calming ingredients like panthenol, ceramide NP and heartleaf extract. I think for oily acne-prone skin types, this could generally make a really excellent night cream, but for dry or sensitive skin types I think there are better barrier creams out there.
Opened: September
Price: $20 USD / 80 mL; shown in 15 mL mini
Rating: 9/10

Other

💛 Banila Co Clean It Zero Cleansing Balm Nourishing

I loved the original Banila Co Clean It Zero Cleansing Balm so much, I needed to try it in another “flavor” — and the nourishing variant was most appropriate for my skin. This has safflower seed oil, evening primrose oil, sunflower seed oil and squalane, making it feel more moisturizing than the original. It also includes ginseng berry and root extracts, and royal jelly extracts, which is relatively moot in a wash-off product, but still nice to have, especially if you tend have your first cleanse double as a wash-off mask (haven’t tried that? I’d recommend it). This has a vanilla fragrance to it that I found quite pleasant.
Opened: March ’23
Price: $24 USD / 100 mL
Rating: 10/10

☀️ Skin1004 Madagascar Centella Hyalu-Cica Water-Fit Sun Serum SPF50+ PA++++

The Skin1004 Madagascar Centella Hyalu-Cica Water-Fit Sun Serum SPF50+ PA++++ had its moment this summer, so of course I got it. I had heard it was pretty lightweight, so I held onto it until we were headed to Japan, figuring that the humidity would be nice for the hyaluronic acid (that’s what the hyalu- stands for). This is a chemical sunscreen with the newer generation of filters, and in addition to the centella asiatica extract that makes this line so iconic, it has ginkgo, green tea and other extracts for antioxidant support. To me, this has a finish similar to the Isntree Hyaluronic Acid Watery Sun Gel, but with not quite as nice a weight on the skin — it feels more like wearing sunscreen. I also initially struggled with the packaging (why a pump and a tube? Why do brands do this?) and think it would have benefited from simply being a tube.
Opened: September
Price: $19 USD / 50 mL
Rating: 9/10

💛 make p:rem Idebenone Lifting Ampoule

If you also ascribe to the skincare approach of “the more fun ingredients in a formula, the better”, then the make p:rem Idebenone Lifting Ampoule is a serum for you. Idebenone is a synthesized alternative to coenzyme Q10, so you know off the bat it’s an antioxidant serum. I gravitated towards it because it also has ceramides NP, AS, AP, NS and EOP, and an antioxidant ceramide serum is pretty much unheard of. As one might guess based on the ceramides, it is a creamy serum, but given additional hyaluronic acid, beta glucan and cholesterol, it feels nicely hydrating. I used it AM and PM. I didn’t notice a ton of results in the time that I used it, but anticipate that with longer-term use I would have.
Opened: July
Price: $20 USD / 40 mL
Rating: 9/10

🍑 Peach Slices Acne Spot Dots

I don’t get many spots, but when I do I simply cannot not pick them, so pimple patches like Peach Slices Acne Spot Dots are extremely useful. These are pretty simple hydrocolloid patches, without any of the fancy microdarts or “secretly invisible” technology you see on some of them. There are 15 small, 6 normal and 9 large patches in a pack. They stick reasonably well.
Opened: March ’23
Price: $5 USD / 30 patches
Rating: 9/10

September Openeds Reviews

September feels like ages ago (well, it was a month, in fairness). In September I got promoted to Director of Engineering, which meant that I felt I had less time to do skincare, and I also went to Japan for a week and a half, which also made me focus on more travel-friendly skincare (note: there were a couple moisturizer minis I opened in September, but given I’ll be reviewing them in my next post for October empties, I skipped them here).

Ampoules

🍋 Missha Vita C Plus Ampoule Stick

I picked up the Missha Vita C Plus Ampoule Stick on a whim when ordering directly from their site (they do sales A LOT — lovers of their First Treatment Essence, take note). I’ve never tried an ampoule stick before (though I love sunscreen sticks!) and thought it might be convenient for my trip to Japan. Because this is a stick, there’s no water in it, giving the ascorbic acid less opportunity to oxidize. In addition to ascorbic acid, this has two vitamin C derivatives, sea buckthorn oil and water, and eight peptides, including copper tripeptide-1. The intent is to use this as a spot treatment, and given its high oil, wax and dimethicone content, it makes more sense that way than as an all-over treatment. That said, I’ve totally used it as an AM moisturizer on occasion by rubbing it everywhere and then tapping it in — though I wouldn’t recommend that approach for oily folks.
Price: $38 USD / 10g

🐝 COSRX Full Fit Propolis Light Ampoule

You know her, you love her — it’s the COSRX Full Fit Propolis Light Ampoule. This is not my first time using this ampoule (I’ve written about it at length previously in Face Off of the Propolis Serums: iUNIK vs COSRX vs Beauty of Joseon). This ampoule’s high percentage of propolis (83.5) gives it a syrupy, gel-like texture which has a lot of slip to it. Outside of the propolis, this is a pretty stripped down formula, making it one of the better propolis options for those with allergies (but it is still a bee product, so, you know, patch test). I love propolis for how lightweight but moisturizing it is, as well as the glow that it gives. This serum is fine to use AM or PM.
Price: $28 USD / 30 mL

Sunscreen

🌤️ SKIN 1004 Madagascar Centella Hyalu-Cica Water-Fit Sun Serum

The SKIN 1004 Madagascar Centella Hyalu-Cica Water-Fit Sun Serum came highly recommended, but also with the caveats that it might not be great for dry skin — so I wanted it for our Japan trip, when I knew I would be in a humid, warm environment. The weather was a big bamboozle generally, going from Denver to Tokyo, but the difference was extreme with this sunscreen: in Colorado, it didn’t feel moisturizing at all, whereas in Japan it felt positively thick upon application, though it dried down nicely. As the name implies, this has Skin 1004’s Madagascar centella, as well as several weights of hyaluronic acid. In classic k-beauty sunscreen fashion, this includes several plant extracts to amplify the antioxidant benefit. This is a chemical sunscreen, using the new generation chemical filters.
Price: $19 USD / 50 mL

🌞 Biore UV Aqua Rich Aqua Protect Lotion SPF50+ PA++++

I couldn’t go to Japan and not get some skincare. What I didn’t really expect was to pick up the Biore UV Aqua Rich Aqua Protect Lotion SPF50+ PA++++ at a 7-11 on the peninsula of Izu before heading down to the ocean. This is an incredibly watery formula — indeed, it’s the sort of sunscreen that I would recommend applying in two light layers, rather than going for two finger-worth all at once. It also has some noticeable fragrance to it, but that dries down quickly, just like the sunscreen itself. We had no issues with sunburn when using this, though like any sunscreen it is important to give it about 20 minutes before hitting the water. Given the price, I can see why this is such a popular option.
Price: $13 USD / 70 mL

Other

🍃 DEWYTREE Cica 100 Essence

I’ve tried the DEWYTREE sheet masks, so I was curious to try the DEWYTREE Cica 100 Essence. This essence is 100% centella asiatica extract (and preservatives, of course). It feels a bit like a “full fat water” — not as thin as the Cosrx Pure Fit Cica Toner, for example, but lighter feeling than the Klairs Supple Unscented Preparation Toner that I rereviewed in my last post. This makes it still quite soothing, but perhaps not as deeply hydrating. It still layers nicely, however.
Price: $31 USD / 160 mL

😴 Sulwhasoo Overnight Vitalizing Sleep Mask

Sulwhasoo is generally a higher price point than I’m interested in paying, but the Sulwhasoo Overnight Vitalizing Sleep Mask mini is a steal. Notionally, the. hero ingredients in this are pomegranate extract and jujube extract (yes, they’re apparently not just a stale candy — who knew?) — with the former providing a lot of antioxidants and the latter providing barrier support. Given that it’s a sleep mask, a lot of the goal here is moisturization, which comes from squalane, shea butter, dimethione, various fatty alcohols, and honey. This does have some fragrance to it, but it’s faint and pleasant.
Price: $6 USD / 35 mL

September Empties Reviews

Oh September. What a month. We were in Japan for 1.5 weeks to celebrate our 6 year wedding anniversary, and before that I was grinding my way through my first weeks of being a Director of Engineering. Notably, the work has not let up since our return, ergo the truly latest batch of reviews I may ever have done. My workload has meant that I am not nearly as good about getting to my routine as I used to be, or I do a slapdash job of it just to move on with my day/night, but this month’s empties include some really great options.

Toners/Essences

🍠 Isntree Yam Root Vegan Milk Toner

I got the Isntree Yam Root Vegan Milk Toner mostly on a whim, because Kelly Driscoll (the k-queen of hydrating toners) recommended it. Well, I think it merits the hype. In texture, it straddles the I’m From Rice toner and Laneige Cream Skin Refiner, which have been compared so often that I actually wrote Face Off: Laneige Cream Skin Refiner vs I’m From Rice Toner. It’s got the light layerability of the I’m From with the hydrating and nourishing qualities of Laneige (before it’s reformulation, anyway — I haven’t tried the new one). Like I’m From Rice, this has rice extract. Like Laneige, it includes meadowfoam seed oil. Yam Root is making a splash as a vegan alternative to snail mucin, and so though it could come off as moisturizing, it’s definitely primarily hydrating. I enjoyed using it immensely.
Opened: May
Price: $24 USD / 200 mL
Rating: 10/10

💧 Klairs Supple Preparation Unscented Toner

The Klairs Supple Preparation Unscented Toner feels like it’s the gateway toner of k-beauty. I took this sample that I got from Ulta with us to Japan, where I luxuriated in several layers of it every morning — the onsens definitely dried out my skin — and managed to finish it before our week and a half there was over. Being Extremely Into Toners, I find this one interesting because it can actually feel quite heavy and thick, even thicker than things like the Isntree Yam Root Vegan Milk Toner above. It can make it harder to layer up a lot without feeling like there’s a lot of product on your skin. For those looking to try a copper peptide, note that this does include copper tripeptide-1 along with sodium ascorbyl phosphate (a vitamin C derivative), and humectants like beta glucan, aloe lefa extract, centella extract and, of course, sodium hyaluronate.
Opened: this month
Price: $22 USD / 180 mL, shown in a 30 mL travel size
Rating: 9/10

🐌 The Klog Snail Mucin Energy Essence

Given that Cosrx Advanced Snail 96 Mucin Power Essence is a classic, I was keen to try The Klog Snail Mucin Energy Essence. This has 6% less snail, clocking in at 90%, but it throws in yam root extract — you know, that vegan snail mucin alternative I mentioned above. I would characterize this as being a bit heavier than the Cosrx, but less snaily and stringy. This does come in about $8 cheaper, which I appreciate. If you’re curious about what snail has to offer but don’t love the texture, I recommend trying this out.
Opened: April
Price: $17 USD / 100 mL
Rating: 9/10

Serums

🍹 Peach & Lily Power Cocktail Lactic Acid Repair Serum

Peach & Lily Power Cocktail Lactic Acid Repair Serum is, hands down, my recommendation for those with more mature skin, who like a gentle exfoliation and would benefit from the added hydration. Indeed, if you have fine lines, I will always recommend lactic acid over Botox or even a retinoid. This has 10% lactic acid, and I found that I was actually able to use it nightly (including in routines with retinol). Lactic acid is, itself, a great hydrating ingredient, but this also includes glycerin, polyglutamic acid and various weights of hyaluronic acid. Ginseng root extract, green tea extract, several peptides and ceramide NP provide extra anti-aging benefits. The one bummer about it is the cost, but it has come up several times on Ulta’s 21 Days of Beauty, which is when I buy it.
Opened: April
Price: $51 USD / 30 mL
Rating: 10/10

💡 Naturium Multi-Bright Tranexamic Acid Treatment 5%

I’ve been curious about tranexamic acid for a while given its ability to fade dark spots and melasma, so I was curious about what changes I might notice with Naturium Multi-Bright Tranexamic Acid Treatment 5%. This also includes encapsualted kojic acid, a tyrosinase inhibitor, as well as alpha arbutin (a brightener) and acetyl glucosamine (an amino acid with some brightening and wrinkle reducing capabilities that is, incidentally, a hyaluronic acid precursor). Randomly, it also includes kaolin clay. I will admit, I noticed no changes in my skin with this, and if anything I actually wound up with more melasma this summer than I would have liked. Part of me wonders if the formula had already largely oxidized (it’s a yellow-brown color), meaning that the active ingredients had already partially reacted and were thus less efficacious. I intend to try both tranexamic acid and kojic acid again, but will not repurchase.
Opened: June
Price: $22 USD / 30 mL
Rating: 6/10

🐝 Dr Ceuracle Royal Vita Propolis 33 Ampoule

Dr Ceuracle is much more known for their kombucha than their propolis, but in the spirit of needing to try all propolis serums, I couldn’t not give Dr Ceuracle Royal Vita Propolis 33 Ampoule a try. Per its name, it has 33% propolis extract, and includes royal jelly extract as well. This is a watery formula (likely due to the relatively low percentage of propolis extract — higher percentage ones are necessarily thicker) but has nice antioxidant support with niacinamide, sea buckthorn fruit extract, an ascorbic acid derivative, and more. This does give the characteristic glow that many propolis serums do. One thing to note? Prices can vary dramatically on this serum, so be sure to check around — I’ve seen it as high as nearly $50 USD which makes it much less worth it compared to other options on the market.
Opened: June
Price: $26 USD / 30 mL
Rating: 9/10

🌲 iUNIK Noni Light Oil Serum

The iUNIK Noni Light Oil Serum is a lightweight but slightly creamy serum. Noni, or morinda citrifolia, is relatively popular as a skincare ingredient with anti-inflammation and hydration benefits. The macadamia nut, jojoba seed and olive oils give this a bit of extra moisturization. I would not say that it’s a must-try, by any means, but the price point is good and if you’re just looking for a little extra “something”, especially in summer when you might be looking for increased hydration, and moisturization in lighter layers, it’s a good pick.
Opened: June
Price: $20 USD / 50 mL
Rating: 7/10

Last Steps

🌚 PSA Midnight Courage Rosehip & Bakuchiol Retinoid Night Oil

I’m always down for trying bakuchiol, so I picked up the PSA Midnight Courage Rosehip & Bakuchiol Retinoid Night Oil during one of their BOGO sales. Bakuchiol and rosehip oil are often considered to be alternatives to retinol (indeed, bakuchiol is labeled a “phytoretinol” by various brands), though this also includes hydroxypinacolone retinoate, a granactive retinoid. In addition to the retinol vibes, this has black currant, pomegranate, arctic cranberry and baobob seed oils, as well as ubiquinone, for some added antioxidant benefit. Sunflower seed oil and safflower seed oil give it a moisturizing feel and spreadability. I found this to smell a bit like Playdoh (not unusual in unfragranced skincare), which was neither here nor there, but I’ll admit I did not notice any retinoid-like effects from this. On the bright side, it also didn’t bother my skin, so I was able to use it more like a normal face oil than a treatment.
Opened: June
Price: $46 USD / 15 mL
Rating: 6/10

🪷 Rovectin Clean Lotus Water Cream

I didn’t expect to love Rovectin Clean Lotus Water Cream, but here we are. I have dry skin, so this is one of few water creams I’ve actually tried. Colorado has been more damp than usual this year, which has been great for our forests as well as for my skin. I used this as both an AM moisturizer as well as a PM moisturizer for a couple months. It wasn’t enough as a PM moisturizer, but with a facial oil, sleeping mask or other slugging product in the mix, it was. Like the rest of Rovectin’s Clean line, it’s a pretty stripped down formula. Lotus flower extract is the hero ingredient, of course, and it includes niacinamide, panthenol and prebiotics, along with glycerin and sweet almond oil. The sheet mask from this line is one of my favorites and I highly recommend it for an immediate glow-up. This definitely takes longer to brighten the skin, but it felt very gently hydrating and moisturizing, without adding any weight.
Opened: June
Price: $20 USD / 60 mL
Rating: 10/10

☀️ Scinic Enjoy Super Mild Sun Essence

Scinic Enjoy Super Mild Sun Essence is SPF50+ PA++++ is currently one of the cheapest of the k-beauty sunscreens on the market, and it performs about as you would expect given that characterization: generally quite lightweight and effective due to the filters (Uvinul A Plus, Tinosorb S, Parsol SLX, Tinosorb M, Uvinul T 150), though greasier than some of the current k-beauty cult classics. I personally preferred this on my arms to my face. Nevertheless, given the price it was easy to bomb through, applying it with alacrity during all of our late summer adventures.
Opened: August
Price: $8 USD / 50 mL
Rating: 9/10

August Empties Reviews

A post with empties, relatively on time? Well clutch my pearls and say it ain’t so. Openeds were last week, with August and July combined. These, being empties, will have my rating out of 10 on how they did for me and my dry skin.

Toner/Essence

🍃 Barr Centella Calming Ampoule Toner

I honestly had forgotten all about the Barr Centella Calming Ampoule Toner, when I went to write these reviews. I’ve tried the essence and the moisturizer from this line, as well, and I would say this is probably the least impactful of the line. Like those products, this has centella, panthenol, ceramide NP, heart leaf extract and jojoba seed oil. Unfortunately, one of the big things I look for in a toner is hydration, and this really didn’t feel particularly hydrating. In fairness, it also didn’t feel stripping or drying. I didn’t notice any particular calming, but I could see this being an interesting addition to those fighting acne, as the willow bark extract along with calming good be good for that skin concern. Overall pretty missable, though.
Opened: April
Price: $22 USD / 200 mL
Rating: 7/10

🍶 Cosrx Galactomyces 95 Tone Balancing Essence

I love Cosrx, and I love galactomyces, and so even though the Cosrx Galactomyces 95 Tone Balancing Essence isn’t a First Treatment Essence, I had reasonable high hopes. Well, I was disappointed. We can move past the fact that it is not a First Treatment Essence, and so rather than a light watery texture it had a more classic, goopy essence texture. That, after all, should be evident with the name. But as someone who really appreciates the benefits of galactomyces in that sort of format, I was surprised to find myself not really getting them at all in the essence format. Suffice it to say: not a dupe either in form or in function of my beloved Missha. This essence dries down rather sticky and feels a bit drying. I also didn’t find that it had any brightening or pore control effects, though perhaps that’s again a mismatch of expectations, as I find first treatment essences to have quite a lot.
Opened: April
Price: $24 USD / 150 mL
Rating: 4/10

Gels

🌵 Isntree Aloe Soothing Gel – Moisture Type

I picked up the Isntree Aloe Soothing Gel before their redesign, to use as a gel with my NuFace. This comes in two types, moisture and fresh. The fresh one is basically 100% aloe, but this one is 80% aloe with centella, green tea, and licorice root extracts, polyglutamic acid and hyaluronic acid, which is why I decided to go for it. It does indeed work well as a NuFace gel. The big problem with this one is that it is extremely hard to dispense because the plastic tube is oddly hard. It is possible that this has been fixed with the redesign, but it’s pretty annoying — I ended up taking off the lid, most times. Said irritation made me long to be through it sooner, and so because it’s such an enormous tube, I also just used it as an extra layer of hydration under my moisturizer, and by the end I used it as body care in addition. (Came in clutch when I burned the top of my knees while mountain biking, I’ll give it that.)
Opened: April
Price: $14 USD / 150 mL
Rating: 8/10

👁 Clinique Moisture Surge Eye 96-Hour Hydro-Filler Concentrate

I’m not very into eye products, as a rule, but the Clinique Moisture Surge Eye 96-Hour Hydro-Filler Concentrate is definitely the sort of product that could get me into them. This pink gel contains encapsulated antioxidants that burst on the skin during application, so when I remembered to use it, it was certainly fun. With long-term use, green tea leaf extract, algae extract, caffeine and niacinamide would certainly help with dark circles, and niacinamide, cholesterol and peptides acetyl hexapeptide-8 and palmitoyl hexapeptide-12 would help support the skin of the area. Hard to really know with such a short period of use, though.
Opened: April
Price: $37 USD / 15 mL; shown in a sample size
Rating: 9/10

Sunscreen

😎 SkinCeuticals Sheer Physical UV Defense SPF 50

You know when you see someone else use a product and it works out great, so you buy it and it doesn’t for you? Well, that’s SkinCeuticals Sheer Physical UV Defense SPF 50. We bought it from our day spa, and when they put it on you after your facial, you’re like “wow, that’s a nice tone up effect.” But after a few hours, even then you notice the white cast at the edge of your hair line, and the moment you try to apply it yourself, BOOM. Sufficient buffing does remove the white cast on our skin, anyway, but get it near a beard or a hair line and it’s back to a mess. We ended up downgrading this to a body sunscreen, where the white cast and drying from the zinc oxide (the “physical” of the “sheer physical”) was less noticeable. The “sheer” likely comes from this being quite liquidy, which did make application a bit easier. Still, we just barely managed to finish it before it expired.
Opened: July ’22
Price: $36 USD / 50 mL
Rating: 4/10

☀️ Hyggee Vegan Sun Cream SPF 50+ PA++++

This is now the second tube of Hyggee Vegan Sun Cream that I’ve emptied. It’s a moisturizing texture that uses modern chemical filters and thus can hit SPF 50+ PA+++. Previously, it was my winter sunscreen, but I found that with my dry skin, it worked well in the summer on days when I wasn’t feeling an AM moisturizer, or just wanted a gel underneath. This has some additional antioxidants in it, like beet root and green algae extracts, which make it a nice pick for times with a lot of sun exposure. Despite being moisturizing, it feels very light on the skin, so my husband and I bomb through this.
Opened: July
Price: $17 USD / 50 mL
Rating: 10/10

Other

🍵 Barr Super Balance Brightening Ampoule

I got the Barr Super Balance Brightening Ampoule as a gift with purchase from the other Barr products I’ve picked up, and I’ll level with you that normally I wouldn’t have gone for it. This is notionally brightening, because of the 81% green tea water and niacinamide, but this functions and feels more like a hyaluronic acid serum — which makes sense, given it’s got seven weights of it. I will own that it worked out well for me when I first opened it, as we had a tremendously damp spring, but as Colorado went back to its old desert tricks, I found myself needing to mist a lot before and after to feel like there was enough water around for the hyaluronic acid to do its work with. It was nice to have something with so much green tea for when I used my LED mask, though.
Opened: May
Price: $21 USD / 50 mL
Rating: 7/10

🪄 Magic Molecule The Solution

Magic Molecule The Solution is officially enough of a staple in our household that this will be the last (non-10/10 round-up) post that I include it in, because I don’t want to just spam you all with it. Heck, we have two bottles of it open at the moment, one downstairs and one upstairs. This is a sprayable hypochlorous acid solution that we love for bug bites, and I use additionally for rashes and on days when my skin is thinking about misbehaving.
Opened: June
Price: $25 USD / 100 mL (in two 50 mL bottles)
Rating: 10/10