I almost wrote that life calmed down a bit in January, which is entirely not true — it featured a perilous trek across two mountain ranges in order to spend two weeks in California — but I did get back on the skincare bandwagon in a big way. My eye eczema DID finally calm down (thanks to the humid Bay Area air and my husband’s Peach Slices azelaic acid, in the end).

Emptied

🐝 COSRX Full Fit Propolis Light Ampoule

The COSRX Full Fit Propolis Light Ampoule is a classic for good reason, and this is my second empty of it. This ampoule’s 83.5% propolis gives it a syrupy, gel-like texture which has a lot of slip to it. I love propolis because it gives a glow, while also being moisturizing. Unlike other propolis serums, this does not include royal jelly or honey, but it’s still an excellent option, and one of the more accessible options for those in the US market. This is not vegan but it is vegetarian, and those with bee allergies should patch test.
Opened: September
Price: $28 USD / 30 mL
Rating: 10/10

😴 Sulwhasoo Overnight Vitalizing Sleep Mask

Sulwhasoo is expensive, but the Sulwhasoo Overnight Vitalizing Sleep Mask mini is a 17 cent per mL steal. As a sleeping mask, this moisturizes with squalane, shea butter, dimethicone, honey and various fatty alcohols. The hero ingredients, per Sulwhasoo, are pomegranate and jujube extracts, which are antioxidants. I didn’t notice any particular difference while using this, though the experience of it was nice — I certainly felt fancy, especially with the faint fragrance. I had been plowing through this and set to empty it in Q4 but when my eye eczema flared I paused use on it, since fragrance seemed to be associated with flare-ups.
Opened: September
Price: $6 USD / 35 mL
Rating: 8/10

🌆 UrbanRx Retinol Rapid Repair & Dark Spot Treatment

I had gotten the UrbanRx Retinol Rapid Repair & Dark Spot Treatment in a mini (though the main size is so small that that would also arguably qualify as a mini) through Ulta, and basically forgotten it until pigmentation from the summer started driving me wild. This has .75% retinol, which makes it feel reasonably strong, as well as niacinamide and kojic acid. I saw pretty rapid, early results with this on the brightening front, though that did end up plateauing. I would say that if you’re going after retinol for skin tone or acne benefits, this might be a good option, but there are better options for anti-aging.
Opened: Not sure! At some point in late 2023, but I forgot to document it
Price: $26 USD / 14 mL
Rating: 8/10

🍶 Missha Time Revolution The First Treatment Essence 5x

In the grand game of SK-II dupes, Missha’s First Treatment Essence reigns supreme — indeed, I actually like it better than SK-II. The Time Revolution 5X is their latest iteration, with 97% desert cica yeast ferment (so the usual galactomyces, but zhuzhed), plus niacinamide and ceramide NP for extra skin barrier benefits. I love this stuff, and pretty much bomb through it. I find it to be deeply hydrating, and gives me “hmm, why is my skin doing so well lately” vibes when I use it regularly. I particularly recommend it as an offbeat solution for pore care, if you’ve tried everything else. It’s expensive, but Missha runs fairly regular sales, so I’ll be repurchasing for 50% off at some point.
Opened: August
Price: $54 USD / 150 mL
Rating: 10/10

☀️ Krave The Beet Shield (original)

In November of 2020, I purchased 10 bottles of Krave Beauty The Beet Shield. This is the last one. I hadn’t been putting it in my empties because it was discontinued and it seemed moot, but the last bottle felt relevant. I still love the finish it gives on the skin.
Opened: Unknown
Price: N/A
Rating: 9/10

🇬🇷 Korres Greek Yoghurt Probiotic SuperDose Face Mask

I picked up the Korres Greek Yoghurt Probiotic SuperDose Face Mask for 38 euros almost a year and a half ago, when in Crete. It hit instant holy grail status for me. If you’re inclined towards reactive or sensitive skin and want instant relief (and don’t have issues with dairy), this can provide instant relief upon application, with a reduction in redness upon rinsing. When my skin wasn’t irritated, I would use it immediately after using an exfoliating wash-off mask, to mitigate some of the potential irritation there. It’s unfortunate that it’s so much more expensive in the United States, but I’m going to keep an eye out for good sales to try and snatch it again.
Opened: November ’22
Price: $52 USD / 100 mL
Rating: 10/10

Opened

🍶 Graymelin Galactomyces Multy Toner

Graymelin kept showing up in searches for me on YesStyle, and so I sprang for the Galactomyces Multy Toner rather than rebuying a first essence. It has, of course, since been seemingly discontinued, so hopefully it doesn’t turn out to be too much of a hit. I love galactomyces for its brightening and pore refining benefits, and I usually look for that in a first essence. This, instead, is a toner, which is basically the same thing but does have implications for its texture, which is not as lightweight as a first essence.
Price: $19 USD / 200 mL

🧬 GeneOn Good Genes ReActivator

I received the GeneOn Good Genes ReActivator as part of a pre-release, before the brand launches. Given the eye eczema that I was still battling at the start of the month, I decided to do proper science with this and try it on just the left side of my face (the one without the eczema, of course). I’m impressed to say that not only does the skin on the left side of my face already feel more robust, my husband also noticed that it seemed plumper to the touch. This has .1% retinal (like retinol, but stronger) and a strong focus on peptides, with 1% copper tripeptide-1 as well as 1.5% Matrixyl 3000 and 1% Matrixyl Synthe 6, two blends shown to signal collagen creation, and 1% Kluyveromyces Biopeptides, which I had never heard of before but can apparently literally slow down cell apoptosis, meaning your cells literally age more slowly. All in all? I’m intrigued, and using it almost every night. One of these days I’ll have to halt my experiment and use it on both sides lest I become forever lopsided.
Price: unknown

🦞 Marin Soothing Hydration Cream

Facebook had been relentlessly advertising the Marin Soothing Hydration Cream to me, and in a fit of “I must get rid of this eye eczema”, I relented. The brand literally started as a way to try to cure eczema. The brand’s gimmick? Each product includes hemocyanin, or a marine glycoprotein derived from lobsters. Those glycoproteins are what help lobsters regrow body parts, and the benefits seem to extend to helping rebuild the skin barrier. (This is not a vegetarian product; don’t use if you have a shellfish allergy). This also includes shea butter, squalane and coconut oil, making it a moisturizer that can work for face or body but most would probably prefer as a body moisturizer, due to its smell (classic unscented skincare bamboozle) and feel on the skin.
Price: $34 USD / 118 mL

👄 Marin Lip Treatment Unscented

Because I’m a sucker who always spends more for free shipping and because in winter in Colorado there’s no such thing as too many lip balms, I also grabbed the Marin Lip Treatment Unscented (there’s also a blueberry french toast option). This has a gloss texture, and I suspect that for those with longer hair, that texture could be quite problematic. But it does stick around, which is helpful. I gave my second tube (see: a problem with spending money to save money) to my sister-in-law, whose lips have been going through it after a temporary move to our dry state, and it’s been helping tremendously. Importantly, it doesn’t taste or smell fishy — but you definitely shouldn’t use it if you have a shellfish allergy (like the cream, this is not a vegetarian product).
Price: $20 USD / 15 mL