Oh September. What a month. We were in Japan for 1.5 weeks to celebrate our 6 year wedding anniversary, and before that I was grinding my way through my first weeks of being a Director of Engineering. Notably, the work has not let up since our return, ergo the truly latest batch of reviews I may ever have done. My workload has meant that I am not nearly as good about getting to my routine as I used to be, or I do a slapdash job of it just to move on with my day/night, but this month’s empties include some really great options.
Toners/Essences
🍠 Isntree Yam Root Vegan Milk Toner
I got the Isntree Yam Root Vegan Milk Toner mostly on a whim, because Kelly Driscoll (the k-queen of hydrating toners) recommended it. Well, I think it merits the hype. In texture, it straddles the I’m From Rice toner and Laneige Cream Skin Refiner, which have been compared so often that I actually wrote Face Off: Laneige Cream Skin Refiner vs I’m From Rice Toner. It’s got the light layerability of the I’m From with the hydrating and nourishing qualities of Laneige (before it’s reformulation, anyway — I haven’t tried the new one). Like I’m From Rice, this has rice extract. Like Laneige, it includes meadowfoam seed oil. Yam Root is making a splash as a vegan alternative to snail mucin, and so though it could come off as moisturizing, it’s definitely primarily hydrating. I enjoyed using it immensely.
Opened: May
Price: $24 USD / 200 mL
Rating: 10/10
💧 Klairs Supple Preparation Unscented Toner
The Klairs Supple Preparation Unscented Toner feels like it’s the gateway toner of k-beauty. I took this sample that I got from Ulta with us to Japan, where I luxuriated in several layers of it every morning — the onsens definitely dried out my skin — and managed to finish it before our week and a half there was over. Being Extremely Into Toners, I find this one interesting because it can actually feel quite heavy and thick, even thicker than things like the Isntree Yam Root Vegan Milk Toner above. It can make it harder to layer up a lot without feeling like there’s a lot of product on your skin. For those looking to try a copper peptide, note that this does include copper tripeptide-1 along with sodium ascorbyl phosphate (a vitamin C derivative), and humectants like beta glucan, aloe lefa extract, centella extract and, of course, sodium hyaluronate.
Opened: this month
Price: $22 USD / 180 mL, shown in a 30 mL travel size
Rating: 9/10
🐌 The Klog Snail Mucin Energy Essence
Given that Cosrx Advanced Snail 96 Mucin Power Essence is a classic, I was keen to try The Klog Snail Mucin Energy Essence. This has 6% less snail, clocking in at 90%, but it throws in yam root extract — you know, that vegan snail mucin alternative I mentioned above. I would characterize this as being a bit heavier than the Cosrx, but less snaily and stringy. This does come in about $8 cheaper, which I appreciate. If you’re curious about what snail has to offer but don’t love the texture, I recommend trying this out.
Opened: April
Price: $17 USD / 100 mL
Rating: 9/10
Serums
🍹 Peach & Lily Power Cocktail Lactic Acid Repair Serum
Peach & Lily Power Cocktail Lactic Acid Repair Serum is, hands down, my recommendation for those with more mature skin, who like a gentle exfoliation and would benefit from the added hydration. Indeed, if you have fine lines, I will always recommend lactic acid over Botox or even a retinoid. This has 10% lactic acid, and I found that I was actually able to use it nightly (including in routines with retinol). Lactic acid is, itself, a great hydrating ingredient, but this also includes glycerin, polyglutamic acid and various weights of hyaluronic acid. Ginseng root extract, green tea extract, several peptides and ceramide NP provide extra anti-aging benefits. The one bummer about it is the cost, but it has come up several times on Ulta’s 21 Days of Beauty, which is when I buy it.
Opened: April
Price: $51 USD / 30 mL
Rating: 10/10
💡 Naturium Multi-Bright Tranexamic Acid Treatment 5%
I’ve been curious about tranexamic acid for a while given its ability to fade dark spots and melasma, so I was curious about what changes I might notice with Naturium Multi-Bright Tranexamic Acid Treatment 5%. This also includes encapsualted kojic acid, a tyrosinase inhibitor, as well as alpha arbutin (a brightener) and acetyl glucosamine (an amino acid with some brightening and wrinkle reducing capabilities that is, incidentally, a hyaluronic acid precursor). Randomly, it also includes kaolin clay. I will admit, I noticed no changes in my skin with this, and if anything I actually wound up with more melasma this summer than I would have liked. Part of me wonders if the formula had already largely oxidized (it’s a yellow-brown color), meaning that the active ingredients had already partially reacted and were thus less efficacious. I intend to try both tranexamic acid and kojic acid again, but will not repurchase.
Opened: June
Price: $22 USD / 30 mL
Rating: 6/10
🐝 Dr Ceuracle Royal Vita Propolis 33 Ampoule
Dr Ceuracle is much more known for their kombucha than their propolis, but in the spirit of needing to try all propolis serums, I couldn’t not give Dr Ceuracle Royal Vita Propolis 33 Ampoule a try. Per its name, it has 33% propolis extract, and includes royal jelly extract as well. This is a watery formula (likely due to the relatively low percentage of propolis extract — higher percentage ones are necessarily thicker) but has nice antioxidant support with niacinamide, sea buckthorn fruit extract, an ascorbic acid derivative, and more. This does give the characteristic glow that many propolis serums do. One thing to note? Prices can vary dramatically on this serum, so be sure to check around — I’ve seen it as high as nearly $50 USD which makes it much less worth it compared to other options on the market.
Opened: June
Price: $26 USD / 30 mL
Rating: 9/10
🌲 iUNIK Noni Light Oil Serum
The iUNIK Noni Light Oil Serum is a lightweight but slightly creamy serum. Noni, or morinda citrifolia, is relatively popular as a skincare ingredient with anti-inflammation and hydration benefits. The macadamia nut, jojoba seed and olive oils give this a bit of extra moisturization. I would not say that it’s a must-try, by any means, but the price point is good and if you’re just looking for a little extra “something”, especially in summer when you might be looking for increased hydration, and moisturization in lighter layers, it’s a good pick.
Opened: June
Price: $20 USD / 50 mL
Rating: 7/10
Last Steps
🌚 PSA Midnight Courage Rosehip & Bakuchiol Retinoid Night Oil
I’m always down for trying bakuchiol, so I picked up the PSA Midnight Courage Rosehip & Bakuchiol Retinoid Night Oil during one of their BOGO sales. Bakuchiol and rosehip oil are often considered to be alternatives to retinol (indeed, bakuchiol is labeled a “phytoretinol” by various brands), though this also includes hydroxypinacolone retinoate, a granactive retinoid. In addition to the retinol vibes, this has black currant, pomegranate, arctic cranberry and baobob seed oils, as well as ubiquinone, for some added antioxidant benefit. Sunflower seed oil and safflower seed oil give it a moisturizing feel and spreadability. I found this to smell a bit like Playdoh (not unusual in unfragranced skincare), which was neither here nor there, but I’ll admit I did not notice any retinoid-like effects from this. On the bright side, it also didn’t bother my skin, so I was able to use it more like a normal face oil than a treatment.
Opened: June
Price: $46 USD / 15 mL
Rating: 6/10
🪷 Rovectin Clean Lotus Water Cream
I didn’t expect to love Rovectin Clean Lotus Water Cream, but here we are. I have dry skin, so this is one of few water creams I’ve actually tried. Colorado has been more damp than usual this year, which has been great for our forests as well as for my skin. I used this as both an AM moisturizer as well as a PM moisturizer for a couple months. It wasn’t enough as a PM moisturizer, but with a facial oil, sleeping mask or other slugging product in the mix, it was. Like the rest of Rovectin’s Clean line, it’s a pretty stripped down formula. Lotus flower extract is the hero ingredient, of course, and it includes niacinamide, panthenol and prebiotics, along with glycerin and sweet almond oil. The sheet mask from this line is one of my favorites and I highly recommend it for an immediate glow-up. This definitely takes longer to brighten the skin, but it felt very gently hydrating and moisturizing, without adding any weight.
Opened: June
Price: $20 USD / 60 mL
Rating: 10/10
☀️ Scinic Enjoy Super Mild Sun Essence
Scinic Enjoy Super Mild Sun Essence is SPF50+ PA++++ is currently one of the cheapest of the k-beauty sunscreens on the market, and it performs about as you would expect given that characterization: generally quite lightweight and effective due to the filters (Uvinul A Plus, Tinosorb S, Parsol SLX, Tinosorb M, Uvinul T 150), though greasier than some of the current k-beauty cult classics. I personally preferred this on my arms to my face. Nevertheless, given the price it was easy to bomb through, applying it with alacrity during all of our late summer adventures.
Opened: August
Price: $8 USD / 50 mL
Rating: 9/10