I usually break empties and openeds into separate posts, but there were fairly few products going into and coming out of my routine in December — the focus of the month was definitely on my Sheet Mask Skincare Challenge, wherein I did a sheet mask, well, every day. Grouping these posts together will also help me get out my Top Skincare of 2022 quicker. Last year it took two posts (Lisa’s List: Top-Rated Skincare of 2021 Part 1 — Toners, Essences, Serums, Creams & Oils and Lisa’s List: Top-Rated Skincare of 2021 Part 2 — Wash-Off Products, Actives, Sunscreen & Other Skincare), we’ll see how many it does this year. As a reminder, I wait to rate products until I empty them.

Empties

🔵 Tia’m Vita B5 Toner

I bombed through the Tia’m Vita B5 Toner. This is what some folks might consider to be a “full fat water” — it is definitely a watery toner that layers up well for Seven Skins, but it has a thickness to it that gives it a ton of slip. The inci list is a who’s who of hydrating, soothing ingredients, with panthenol, hydrolyzed collagen, glycerin, three peptides, two types of saccharomycess ferment extract, and lactobacillus extract. This wasn’t as deeply hydrating as I would have liked, however, which is probably why I went through it so quickly, as I layered it up a lot. I think this could make a great toner in a simple routine focused predominantly on soothing, however.
Opened: October
Price: $14 USD / 180 mL
Rating: 9/10

🍒 Good Skin Days C’s The Day Serum

I loved the Good Skin Days C’s The Day Serum before it was reformulated as the Good Days For All C’s the Day Serum. This is a vitamin c serum with 10% (12% in the new formula) ascorbic acid, plus licorice root, niacinamide and vitamin c rich plant extracts to up the brightening power. I usually give this a 10/10 due to its price and performance, but it does oxidize something fierce — expect it to oxidize after a month and a half when open, and to even oxidize when not. This particular bottle lived a few months in the back of my fridge’s cheese drawer, and it still went. I know this is one of the things they’re hoping to adjust with the reformulation, which I have now in my stash, so we’ll see how it goes.
Opened: October
Price: N/A (formula discontinued)
Rating: 9/10

✨ PSA Liquid Panacea Centella & Kombucha Firming Recovery Booster

The PSA Liquid Panacea Centella & Kombucha Firming Recovery Booster seems to be one of the most-loved products from Allies of Skin’s sister line. I used this as my “skin barrier supportive” serum throughout November and part of December: it being 15 mL means it really doesn’t last long, which is my only complaint, but if you’re the sort of person who only rotates products in as they’re absolutely necessary, and tends to have unproblematic skin, the price per use might be more your speed. This uses fermented white tea (kombucha) to support the microbiome, with centella and madecassoside to soothe. This is a creamy formula for which a little really does go a long way, and it layers nicely. It wasn’t the most powerful skin soother in my arsenal, though.
Opened: November
Price: $30 USD / 15 mL
Rating: 9/10

Openeds

🐌 COSRX Advanced Snail 96 Mucin Power Essence

COSRX Advanced Snail 96 Mucin Power Essence is a cult classic, for good reason. Snail is one of the best skin healers and soothers out there (if you’re not allergic to it), with benefits for anti-aging as well. The price on this is great (even better if you can get it at 50% off, which you can frequently at Ulta — it will be on 1/7/23), and since it only takes about 3 pumps to cover face, neck and chest, it’s apt to last a good while. This does have some of the characteristic snail stringiness, though less than the cream from the same line. This is definitely more like a serum than most essences, however.
Price: $25 USD / 100 mL

🌱 Pyunkang Yul Essence Toner

I’m a sucker for Pyunkang Yul, so it was inevitable I’d get a full-size of the Essence Toner after using up a mini. Pyunkang Yul exists in a very enviable spot in the market: inexpensive, looks fancy, actually works. The Essence Toner is one of their most iconic products, using astragalus membranaceus root extract, a traditional Chinese medicine ingredient, known for its antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. Among skincare circles, it might be better known for its glass-skin-giving properties, as a few layers of this more viscous toner really makes the skin look and feel hydrated — oilier skin types might not love the slightly heavy feeling, though.
Price: $18 USD / 200 mL

🍶 Neogen Real Ferment Micro Serum

I’ve tried the Neogen Real Ferment Micro Essence and been disappointed that it, understandably, didn’t have the same effect as a First Treatment Essence, but I’m excited to see what the Neogen Real Ferment Micro Serum and my modified expectations can achieve. In line with the essence, this relies on 61% fermented ingredients: bifida ferment lysate, saccharomyces ferment filtrate, rice ferment filtrate and aspergillus ferment, all of which help support a healthy skin barrier. Unlike the essence, this adds a lot of other goodies, like birch juice, panthenol, green tea leaf extract, centella extract, resveratrol, ascorbic acid and ubiquinone, making it a great antioxidant option as well. It’s a gel-like formula that layers well, and I’ve been using two pumps AM and PM.
Price: $38 USD / 30 mL