Folks seem to love my ratings (out of 10) of skincare, so I figured there’s no time like the present to collate all of my top-rated (10 out of 10) skincare for the year. Note: I only rate skincare when it’s emptied (if it’s newly opened, I haven’t been using it for long enough to get a good read on it), so there are some products currently in my rotation that may well be 10/10 for me but won’t be making this list until next year.
Over 30 products made the cut, so I had to split them into two parts! I also haven’t included products I know to be discontinued (e.g. Krave Beauty The Beet Shield), or tried to include categories where I’ve yet to find a holy grail (e.g. cleansers). I’ve also added the new category of “Actives” just this once, to group retinol, vitamin c and exfoliants — but those will be coming in my next post, so stay tuned! Next week I’ll cover wash-off products, actives, sunscreen and other skincare.
Toners & Essences
🍶 Missha Time Revolution First Treatment Essence
The Missha Time Revolution First Treatment Essence is my second most repurchased skincare product, because the galactomyces in here does wonders for my pores and redness. Galactomyces was supposedly discovered as a skincare ingredient when the scientists of SK-II noticed the young hands but old faces of sake brewers. Galactomyces doesn’t work for everyone — especially those who are fungal acne-prone — and it’s a frequently slept-on ingredient due to cost because it takes a while to see results, but after about a month you can tell there’s a difference. It hydrates, strengthens the skin barrier and provides antioxidant benefits. While I won’t always be using Missha, I’m determined to never go without galactomyces again. It’s worth noting that Missha does reformulate this every year, and I’ve only tried the fourth generation of this. It appears that the fifth generation may have bumped down the actual galactomyces percentage, but I’m sure I’ll be trying it at some point, you know, for science.
Number Emptied: 4
Number in Stash: 0
Currently in Use: no (using other galactomyces toner/essences, though)
Price: $25-$54 / 150 mL depending upon retailer
🍶 MIZON Skin Power Original First Essence
Within a week of switching onto the MIZON Skin Power Original First Essence (from the Neogen Microferment Essence), I noticed my pores start to shrink and my persistent redness, particularly on my chin, start to diminish. This first essence — so named because it’s intended to be the first step of your skincare routine after cleansing, even before toner — has 94.5% galactomyces, as well as some extra skin-beneficial ingredients like niacinamide, cocoa extract and coptis japonica root extract. Those with acne-prone or sensitive skin should probably tread lightly, as this also includes castor oil and a few essential oils. There is some fragrance to this, but the full-size is the most affordable first essence on the market, so there’s a good chance I’ll be coming back to this in the future — I’m never going without galactomyces ever again.
Number Emptied: 1
Number in Stash: 0
Currently in Use: no (see note re Missha)
Price: $22 USD / 210 mL for full-size; pictured in the mini size
🍃 COSRX Pure Fit Cica Toner
The COSRX Pure Fit Cica Toner has been a holy grail for me since I initially won the full size version in a giveaway from the brand. This is an incredibly watery toner that basically uses every part of the centella asiatica plant thanks to COSRX’s Cica-7 Complex, as well as pinus pinaster bark extract, or Pycnogenol, which is an anti-inflammatory antioxidant. I find this to be a deeply hydrating toner which layers incredibly well to soothe and plump the skin — I usually go for two to three layers AM and PM, and it really helps bring my skin back from the brink when it’s distressed. I’m hard-pressed to think of anyone I would not recommend this toner to, except for those that generally eschew anything beyond the basic cleanser-moisturizer-spf routine.
Number Emptied: 3
Number in Stash: 0
Currently in Use: yes
Price: $22 USD/150 mL
🐝 Cosrx Full-Fit Propolis Synergy Toner
The Cosrx Propolis Synergy Toner is one of the products that got me onto propolis, and I’ve been here ever since. Despite being a toner, this almost has an essence texture to it — you probably would not want more than two layers, though it does pair nicely with other toners (see: Cosrx Cica) for seven skins. If you’re looking for a cost-effective, lightweight way to introduce propolis in your routine (and I recommend it for almost any skin concern — acne, hyperpigmentation, even dryness), I urge you to give this a go.
Number Emptied: 2
Number in Stash: 1
Currently in Use: no
Price: $22 USD/150 mL
🐌 Peach Slices Snail Rescue Blemish Busting Toner
If you’re interested in snail but aren’t sure about the texture, the Peach Slices Snail Rescue Blemish Busting Toner is a great cost-effective option — the toner has 95% snail mucin (just 1% less than the cult classic Cosrx Snail Mucin) but has no gloopiness to it. It’s just a lovely, slightly thicker toner that’s great for layering. Snail mucin, of course, has many great skin benefits mostly centered around wound healing, which is why this is marketed towards blemish-prone skin but works really well for those of us fighting other skin-barrier fights as well.
Number Emptied: 2
Number in Stash: 0
Currently in Use: no (I’m not actually using any snail at the moment … not sure how that happened)
Price: $14 USD / 120 mL
💧 Pyunkang Yul Essence Toner
This was basically the first “essence toner” to really get popular, and put Pyunkang Yul on the map in the western market in a lot of ways. As the first of its type, a lot of folks didn’t really know how to use it — was it an essence? Was it a toner? Did parsing that difference really matter? The answers are yes, yes and maybe. This is an essence in that its very focused on a single ingredient (astragalus membranaceus root extract, aka milk vecht root extract), which is the focus of many of Pyunkang Yul’s products that are geared towards dry skin. It’s also a toner in that you can feel comfortable putting on several layers and apply directly after cleansing. This has a nearly jelly texture, so if you’re really into seven skins you probably won’t want to use this for all seven. For my part, I really enjoyed the texture and would happily use it as my essence step.
Number Emptied: 1
Number in Stash: 1
Currently in Use: no
Price: $19 USD / 200 mL
🥛 Laneige Cream Skin Toner & Moisturizer
Laneige Cream Skin is labeled as both a toner and moisturizer due to its relatively high oil content (for a toner, anyway), which gives it good body. The hero ingredient is the white tea extract, which has even more antioxidant benefits than green tea, but it’s the meadowfoam seed oil which really gives it that nice texture and emollience without feeling greasy. If you’re hoping to give your skin a bit of an extra hug, Laneige Cream Skin Toner & Moisturizer may be the product for you, and can even function as a moisturizer for more oily skin types.
Number Emptied: 1
Number in Stash: 1 (a mini)
Currently in Use: no
Price: $33 USD / 150 mL
Serums
🐝 Some By Mi Propolis B5 Glow Barrier Calming Serum
Some By Mi Propolis B5 Glow Barrier Calming Serum has 73% propolis extract as well as panthenol (vitamin B5) to fulfill its name, but it also has honey extract, royal jelly extract, niacinamide, lactobacillus extract, saccharomyces, mugwort, tea leaf water, coptic japonica extract, ceramide NP and a bunch of variations on centella asiatica. This has a nice, easy to apply texture and the pump format makes it really easy to use, and while it has fragrance it seems to just be a honey masking one. I stand by having a dedicated propolis serum in my routine but if you’re looking for propolis but want a “does it all” sort of serum, I’ve been super impressed with this. It’s certainly the most cost-effective of the propolis serums: $20 for 50 mL, versus the more typical $30 for 30.
Number Emptied: 1
Number in Stash: 0
Currently in Use: no (using a different propolis serum)
Price: $20 USD / 50 mL
🧺 AMPLE:N Ceramide Shot Ampoule
Long-time readers will know that I swear by having a dedicated ceramide serum in my routine, and the AMPLE:N Ceramide Shot Ampoule is basically the most cost-effective option out there — even available in a 100 mL size. It doesn’t have the ceramide gloopiness of RNW or Kate Somerville, but still delivers skin supportive benefits with ceramides 1, 2 and 3, plus cholesterol, beta-glucan and niacinamide. Those looking for a hydrating serum that also has a lot of skin barrier support will definitely enjoy this.
Number Emptied: 1
Number in Stash: 0
Currently in Use: no (getting my ceramides from Stratia Liquid Gold and Farmacy Honey Halo at the moment)
Price: $36 USD / 100 mL; or $20 USD / 30 mL
🧺 RNW Der. Ceramide Concentrate Serum
Of all the ceramide serums I’ve tried, RNW Der. Ceramide Concentrate Serum has a particularly lovely ingredient list: five types of ceramides, niacinamide, a variety of antioxidant plant extracts, a bunch of peptides, and a few other nice-to-haves like squalane. It’s got what I’m now considering to be a classic ceramide serum, meaning a bit gluey and goopy thanks to the fats. To offset the gloopiness, I enjoyed cocktailing (aka mixing) it with another serum. This is a great “do it all” anti-aging ceramide serum.
Number Emptied: 1
Number in Stash: 0
Currently in Use: no (see notes above re: Ample:N)
Price: $32 USD / 30 mL
Creams and Oils
☘️ Isntree Cica Relief Cream
The Isntree Cica Relief Cream was an instant holy grail. I loved it for reducing irritation — both generalized redness and specific itchy patches. It’s a great weight for an AM moisturizer, and the light green tint helps visibly neutralize skin tone. In addition to centella asiatica extract and asiaticoside, this includes four different peptides (sh-Oligopeptide-1, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Copper Tripeptide-1), multiple plant extracts for brightening, and panthenol and allantoin for additional calming.
Number Emptied: 1
Number in Stash: 2
Currently in Use: no
Price: $22 USD / 30 mL
🐝 Cosrx Full Fit Propolis Light Cream
I loved this so much I used it up in a month. I used it AM and PM this spring as the weather transitioned and let me just say, it’s a delight. Like the rest of the Cosrx propolis line, it includes honey, royal jelly and the titular propolis. Light enough for use under sunscreen, but great for cold nights under a facial oil and/or a sleeping mask. I definitely recommend it for those looking to add some bee magic to their routine but aren’t feeling a toner or serum.
Number Emptied: 1
Number in Stash: 0
Currently in Use: no
Price: $32 USD / 50 mL
🏅 Stratia Liquid Gold
Stratia Liquid Gold is a cult favorite for a reason. It’s quite striking to look at, if nothing else, since the sea buckthorn oil makes it that particular shade of gold. It’s super lightweight, so depending upon your skin type and routine you can use this either as a serum (I like it right before retinol), as an AM moisturizer (why I originally purchased it) or as a PM moisturizer (how my husband uses it). One of the many things that makes Liquid Gold special is its balance of ceramides, cholesterol and fatty acids, all of which are key components to the skin barrier and which it includes in ratios equal to those found in your skin.
Number Emptied: 1
Number in Stash: 3
Currently in Use: yes
Price: $27 USD / 60 mL
💙 Pyunkang Yul Ato Cream Blue Label
I LOVE THIS CREAM. So so much. I’ve recommended it to a ton of folks, and I just convinced a friend to get it as the k-beauty step up from the classic CeraVe Moisturizing Cream. It’s got a nice cream texture without being too waxy, so it’s eminently spreadable and great if you want something nourishing but not heavy-feeling. While it’s ostensibly also a body cream, I’ve just been using it as my PM moisturizer — it’s much too precious to me to smear it all over my boring old body skin. I love that it’s got nourishing oils and extracts while still having a lovely bit of occlusivity from the shea butter and beeswax.
Number Emptied: 1
Number in Stash: 1
Currently in Use: no
Price: $20 USD/120 mL
🛌 A’pieu Madecassoside Sleeping Mask
If I have any irritation from earlier in my routine (hello, the occasionally stinging exfoliation), the A’pieu Madecassoside Sleeping Mask eradicates it. The madecassoside — an important compound from centella asiatica — makes it super calming and almost cooling, and the value is pretty unbeatable. If you live in a very dry climate (the humidity in our house tends to hover around 32%), popping this on will keep your skin from being tight when you wake up. I put just a thin layer at the very end of my routine and when I wake up my cheeks feel soft and comforted.
Number Emptied: 2
Number in Stash: 0
Currently in Use: no
Price: $15 USD / 80 mL
🛢 Chiasm Skin Horizon Oil and Custom Facial Oil
Chiasm Skin launched last year and not many people have heard of it, so I’m combining these two reviews in the name of expediency — and because frankly, it’s hard to parse out differences between two oils some 10 month since last using them. Chiasm Skin is an indie brand focusing on oil blends. The Horizon Oil combines prickly pear, oil, cloudberry seed oil and sugarcane-derived squalane for a super lightweight oil, and absorbs beautifully, even as the last step of my fairly extensive PM routine. The month that I was able to use it for was not long enough to truly tell a difference, but if you’re afraid of oils yet wanting to try one, get this! You’ll love it. As long as you like herbaceous smells, that is, as this definitely has a strong aroma thanks to the addition of blue tansy and immortelle essential oils. Immortelle essential oil also featured heavily in my custom facial oil. Working with the founder over e-mail, we discussed my general skincare preferences, skin concerns and allergies, and she put together a formula for me — similar in some ways to Horizon, so it absorbed easily, with a vitamin C derivative, licorice root extract, rosehip oil and kakadu plum extract for added brightening.
Number Emptied: 3 (two Custom, one Horizon — I’ve also used Wild Being and Daybreak from the brand)
Number in Stash: 1 (well, another oil from Chiasm, not one of these two)
Currently in Use: no
Price: $56 USD / 30 mL for Horizon; $165 USD / 40 mL for Custom (only the Custom Oil photographed due to current inability to find the empty of the former)
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